Aizuwakamatsu: History with a sake chaser

Museums, Japanese museums -- let's be honest; some of them are a touch on the dry side when it comes to entertainment value. Many are incredible, but most are, well, dull corporate affairs.

Sure, the history is compelling, but a day trawling row after row of dimly lit exhibits and peering at those tiny, kanji-heavy description tags is enough to drive even the most hardcore of history buffs to drink.

Fortunately, there's an easy solution to both aspects of our dilemma a couple of hours out of Tokyo in the shape of a little spot in Fukushima Prefecture called Aizuwakamatsu.

There you'll find an altogether more lively mix of open-air history and -- this is the good part -- some top-notch Japanese sake to end the day.

End of an era

First, a little background. After Japan was opened to international trade in 1854, there was a backlash against the foreign presence and the Tokugawa shogunate that had allowed it. The opposition coalesced under the Emperor, kicking off a battle for control known as the Boshin War.

In 1866, however, Shogun Iemochi Tokugawa and Emporor Komei both died and were succeeded by Yoshinobu Tokugawa and Emperor Meiji, who brokered a truce.

The peace fell apart when opposition hardliners demanded the dissolution of the shogunate and the confiscation of all Tokugawa land. When Yoshinobu could not accept the terms, the country was plunged back into war.

Unfortunately for the stubborn shogun, the Imperial forces eventually surrounded Edo and he surrendered unconditionally.

Most of Japan fell into line behind the Emperor after news of Tokugawa's defeat spread, but his northern clans, among them the Aizus, remained fiercely loyal and continued the fight.

Aizu's last stand

A brisk hike around the lakes of Goshiki-numa is a lesson in geological history.

Aizuwakamatsu was a castle town then, but the modernized weaponry that had begun to enter Japan had not yet reached it.

In a story that will sound familiar if you've seen Tom Cruise hamming it up in "The Last Samurai," the doomed defenders of Tsuruga Castle had traditional weapons and crude canons made from wood and rope, while the Imperial forces brought rifles, Gatling guns and metal canon.

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Though the large Aizu clan was known for its military prowess, they were overmatched.

In one of the most famous stories from the month-long siege, a detached unit of teenage samurai known at the Byakkotai, or White Tigers, mistakenly thought the castle had fallen and committed ritual seppuku.

One of them messed up the belly-slicing and survived to tell the tale, though, leading to the young men taking their place in history as the tragic heroes of the Battle of Aizu.

Eventually, the castle officials were forced to surrender, the surviving samurai were sent to prisoner camps, and the domain of Aizu was abolished. The northern coalition crumbled and, with a complete imperial victory in sight, the Meiji Period officially began.