Ninja sneakers and cherry-blossom hoodies: It's the new wafuku

Many savvy hipsters and elegant modernistas in Japan work to incorporate traditional togs such as kimono, geta and tabi sandals into their wardrobes. The pieces, however, are not usually antique wafuku but new versions updated for the 21st Century, supplied by a legion of homegrown brands that combine a distinctly Neo-Japanesque sensibility with a contemporary fashion sense. 

Here is a sampling of brands that are not only garnering attention for their new-school Japanese designs, but also for their devotion to old-school craftsman techniques. 

Hirocoledge

Hirocolege's chief designer Hiroko Takahashi plays around with vibrant pop and geometrical patterns, but she is dead serious when it comes to her textiles and kimonos. So serious that she studied a Meiji era stop-resin dye technique at the doctorate level at Tokyo's prestigious University of Fine Arts and Music after starting her brand. If Hirocolege's kimono or yukata are a bit high in price (yukata start from about ¥84,000), pick up one of her hypnotizing bulls-eye or vivid checkerboard prints on other items such as fans, bags and obi belts. 

Available online at www.hirocoledge.com.

SouSou's ninja-boot inspired sneakers.

Sou-Sou

Tabi -- the cleaved slippers with a rubber sole (often referred to as "ninja boots") -- are said to go back to the 11th century. The Kyoto-based workshop Sou-Sou and its small group of artisans has modernized the shoe, and ironically, offers the only tabi actually made in Japan. Sou-Sou's tabi look like sneakers and come in an array of funky doodles and sketches bursting with cutesy charm. The brand has also collaborated with the Kyoto University of Art and Design for a wicked collection of men's boots and even opened a shop in Minami Aoyama (Minami-Aoyama 5-3-10, Minato-ku, tel. 03 3407 7877).

Available online at www.sousou.co.jp.

Mukashi Mukashi

The old ways have come back for the yankii set, with Mukashi Mukashi's hoodies, hats and jeans. The brand's pieces employ the hand painted yuzen technique to create intricate tattoo-like drawings of sakura cherry blossoms, dragons and other mythical creatures. The art of the order-made pieces is done at the hands of craftsmen in Kyoto, and the premium denim comes from Okayama. There are even pairs that use a scrap of bamboo tatami mat for the back pocket. 

Available online at www.littleromance.co.jp/en.

Dragon denim from Wappa.

Wappa

Wappa is another Kyoto-based jeans maker, but this brand paints drawings with the Japanese lacquer technique for a strong and glossy texture. Wappa's designs center on Japanese gods, koi fish and dragons and are made with a five-step process of stenciling, layers of painting and sealing. Lighthearted patterns of flowers and bunnies grace the ladies' line of shirts.

Available online at www.wappa-kyoto.jp.

 

Noritaka Tatehana geta shoes.

Noritaka Tatehana

Fashion designer Noritaka Tatehana created a line called "Japanesque" where the pieces appear antique at first glance but are decidedly fashion-forward on closer inspection. One pair of Tatehata's geta slippers are striking not just for their vegetable-tanned leather, hand stitching and yuzen coloring of a raven but also for their abstract circle shape that catapults them from 1910 to 2010. The line also includes half-moon bags with cashmere lining and kamikazari hair combs with gold embossed patterns.

Information at noritakatatehana.com.

 

 

 

 

A little bit 'wa' a little bit 'woo' from Furifu.

Furifu

Furifu is a cute chain of boutiques that caters to the young woman who is either looking for a way to dress up her look for festivals or who just wants to add a little "wa" to her everyday wardrobe. The shops carry clothing and accessories that have a Japanese touch such as shibori bags, kanzashi hair pins and day dresses made from materials such as crepe fabric smattered with a graphic cherry blossom pattern. The best part is that Furifu has many locations country-wide, including three inside the Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Kichijoji PARCOs.

Shop information at www.furifu.com/shops.