It's classy, it's experimental, it's kolor's new store

That kolor would choose to align itself with upscale Aoyama comes as something of a surprise. Slouchy and understated, the Japanese label’s signature style would be more at home along the Meguro River. Yet with the opening of its first flagship store last summer, the six-year-old brand claimed a spot of reality alongside such fashion empires as Prada and Comme des Garcons. Though unlike the surrounding architectural marvels, this basement boutique makes use of an existing space -- with an entrance so suitably understated that you’re likely to miss it altogether. 

kolor is the work of Junichi Abe, whose pedigree makes him less of an outsider than the humble designer might choose to admit. The Bunka Fashion College graduate worked as a pattern maker for Junya Watanabe Comme des Garcons for four and a half years and took on multiple roles at domestic design collective ppCM for a decade before striking out on his own. With kolor, Abe has become something of a local star, sparking speculation that the designer might also have the talent to be an international star too. In recent seasons his street-wise classics have charmed buyers from taste-making boutiques like L’Eclaireur in Paris and HLorenzo in Los Angeles. 

Abe eschews themes and story lines in favor of the garments themselves, which, for men and women, manage to tread a delicate line between traditional and insouciant. In addition to a compelling palette that includes such overlooked neutral wonders as steel blue and burnt orange, kolor stands out for using original materials that are often a hybrid of natural and tech-savvy elements. PR rep Mika Hayashida explains that the aim of this experimentation is to create “a play of textures,” noting that cardigans masquerading as jackets (or vice versa) are popular items. While said cozy, yet practical items are actually attended for men, Hayashida adds that they have plenty of female admirers as well.

B1 5-6-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; tel: +81 (0)3 5464 5471; open Monday - Sunday 11am-8pm; www.kolor.jp