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Conceptual comestibles: Ayako Suwa's food art

Conceptual comestibles: Ayako Suwa's food art

We talk to Tokyo culinary artist Ayako Suwa about guilt, disappointment and happiness, and what they taste like
Ayako SuwaAyako Suwa's work "A lingering taste of regret with overtones of anger welling up" is made with American cherries, balsalmic vinegar and seaweed.

Ayako Suwa has incredibly culinary skills but don't ask her how to make an amazing Bouillabaisse. She is not a chef, but rather an artist who works with food. Her business called food creation consists of an art division responsible for a growing collection of "emotional" dishes and installations, as well as a catering business of custom dinners.

CNNGo spoke to Suwa about how her ganache meets panache -- and why her cherries look so sinister.

CNNGo: You make "storyline" dinners. What does that mean?

Ayako Suwa: I create a story and a number of dishes that represent details of the story. For example, a slice of crispy whale may represent the highway pavement, and soup that crackles may be rain. Taste is important, but I also incorporate sound, sight, smell and touch -- all of the senses -- so that by the end of the meal I've evoked a whole slew of emotions from the dining guests.

CNNGo: Speaking of emotions, you have made 128 'emotional' dishes so far. What are they?

Suwa: Well, for example, I call an American cherry, balsamic vinegar and seaweed "A lingering taste of regret with overtones of anger welling up." They are dishes I created and named according to my own feelings I have towards them, but to someone else they might feel like a different emotion.

CNNGo: What dish are you feeling right now?

Suwa: Probably #1 is "surprise and happiness" (laughs). It's popcorn, cauliflower and marshmallow with salt, pollen and yuzu put together. Then there is an edible flower with chocolate ganache.

CNNGo: What does food mean to you?

Suwa: To me, food is such a fundamental part of ourselves. It is so raw, animalistic and even sexual. I would also say it's like a trap because when food is placed in front of you, you have the choice to eat it or not. A good dish captivates us to want to put it into our mouths, and I hope my work does just that.

CNNGo: Is there a way for us to try out your dishes?

Suwa: I've done some guerrilla restaurants overseas where I set up shop for just a few days or even a few hours. I'm thinking about doing that in Tokyo. I also make purchasable food boxes that are stuffed with different things that I often use in my dishes.

 

Ayako Suwa can be contacted through her company food creation's website or email info@foodcreation.jp. To contact her management company point of view co., ltd., call 03 5428 5178.

Misha Janette is a fashion reporter, stylist and translator who runs the fashion commentary site, Frivolite. She is a graduate of Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College.
Read more about Misha Janette

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