Rocking across the city: Tokyo's 10 best live houses
Tokyo's small music venues offer the perfect portal into Japan's diverse but sometimes impenetrable music scene
Tokyo’s small music venues (or “live houses”) offer the perfect portal into Japan’s diverse and sometimes impenetrable music scene. But while many make for a fun night out, others can lack the atmosphere you really want on a night of hard rockin' beats. A widespread pay-to-play system can lead to bands of questionable quality hogging the stage, while low-grade beer can make the bar feel like a rip-off. To help you avoid the pitfalls on your voyage of discovery, here’s our guide to Tokyo’s 10 best live houses. (Note: prices are based on advance ticket purchases; most venues also charge roughly ¥500 for a compulsory drink ticket.)
MidoriLoft, Shinjuku
Opened in 1976, Loft has earned its place as one of Tokyo’s key music venues. This 500-capacity lower-basement club in Shinjuku’s seedy Kabukicho area has played host to internationally renowned domestic acts like Guitar Wolf and GO!GO!7188, as well as the up-and-coming bands that fill its roster most nights of the week. Even the occasional mini-festival makes use of a second stage in the bar. The booking policy leans towards harder rock and garage bands, though not exclusively, and the kitchen serves dishes such as seafood curry and “killer pasta” from ¥500.
Average entry price: ¥3,000
Tatehana Building B2, 1-12-9 Kabukicho, Shinjuku; tel. +81 (0)3 5272 0382
Peelander-ZShelter, Shimokitazawa
Owned by the company behind Loft, Shelter is one of Tokyo’s most reputed live houses. Located in bohemian neighborhood Shimokitazawa, this 250-capacity no-frills venue is often used by rising Japanese bands for album launch events and by major acts for secret shows (which can get pretty sweaty). You’ll find great rock or indie bands and a friendly crowd on any given night, and the bar stays open till dawn after most shows.
Average entry price: ¥2,500
Senda Building, B1 2-6-10, Shimokitazawa; tel. +81 (0)3 3466 7430
www.loft-prj.co.jp/SHELTER/index.html
SaltleeHeaven’s Door, Sangenjaya
With its diverse yet selective booking policy that eschews the pay-to-pay system favored by most Tokyo live houses, Heaven’s Door has fostered a family vibe that makes the grungy, hand-decorated basement venue a favorite among the bands who play there. As such, you can expect a warm atmosphere and a thoughtful lineup of artists. While regular all-night events titled XXX feature all-girl hardcore and punk bands, other nights offer electropop or rock-pop acts as well.
Average entry price: ¥1,800
Keio-Hall Building B1, 1-33-19 Sangenjyaya; +81 (0)3 3410 9581
www.geocities.jp/xxxheavensdoorxxx
NatccuO-Nest, Shibuya
Part of the Shibuya O Group that huddles four venues on one street, O-Nest occupies the fifth and sixth floors of a building in the heart of Tokyo’s youth district of Shibuya. O-Nest occasionally attracts international touring bands such as American lo-fi rockers Quasi, but in the main it’s a hotspot for Japanese acts that are just about to go big-time, and the separate bar on the sixth floor means you can skip the bands you don’t like and enjoy the draught beer.
Average entry price: ¥2,500
On Air West Building 6F, 2-3 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0)3 3462 4420
www.shibuya-o.com/category/nest
Astro-B'Live Inn Rosa, Ikebukuro
Aiming squarely for the otaku (obsessive) market, Live Inn Rosa’s schedule is filled to bursting with electropop units and wannabe pop idols. On any given night you will find saccharine-sweet groups with choreographed dances and a thin but fervent crowd of fans who know every step. Don’t let this put you off -- look out for regulars such as athletic electro duo Bespa Kumamero and theatrical rockers Astro-B’, and settle in for a night of uniquely bizarre live music.
Average entry price: ¥2,000
Rosa Kaikan B2F, 1-37-12 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; +81 (0)3 5956 3463
MoliceFever, Shin-Daita
Opening in 2009, Fever has quickly built a reputation as one of Tokyo’s finest music venues. Despite a capacity of just 300, it draws big-name alternative Japanese artists such as Doping Panda, Ken Yokoyama and Bloodthirsty Butchers, while also remaining accessible for up-and-coming bands. The venue has been designed with care -- great sound, perfect sight lines, clean toilets, real beer, a segregated smoking area, and non-stick walls to ensure the hall is not cluttered with posters. The result is a stylish venue where the stage gets your full attention.
Average entry price: ¥2,500
1-1-14 Hanegi, Shin-Daita Building 1F, Setagaya-Ku; +81 (0)3 6304 7899
Nearest stations: Shin-Daita, Setagaya-Daita, Shimo-Kitazawa
MirPenguin House, Koenji
Ever since the infamous 20000V burned down last year, Koenji has been without a flagship venue. UFO is perhaps the most representative of the freaky local style, though it’s not in Koenji proper; Enban is more a record store than a music venue; and High offers great bands but not much Koenji flavour. But the cozy Penguin House, with its ramshackle vibe, tight quarters and lack of a stage, is perhaps the friendliest and most comfortable. Expect chaotic experimental pop bands with sloppy technique and great big smiles.
Average entry price: ¥1,800
Misuzu Bldg B1, 3-24-8 Kita Koenji, Suginami-ku; +81 (0)3 3330 6294
Mass of the Fermenting DregsSuperDeluxe, Roppongi
More an avant-garde hipster hangout than a live house, SuperDeluxe is nevertheless the best spot to watch live music in Roppongi. Attracting a wide range of bands from jazz to punk and all points between, as well as art exhibitions and performance events (and sometimes all three in one night), the venue is a cultural oasis in one of Tokyo’s seediest red light districts. Don’t forget to try a bottle of Tokyo Ale, the SuperDeluxe’s own microbrewed beer; and check the website before you head down, since the venue closes some nights.
Average entry price: ¥2,500 (though some nights are free)
B1F 3-1-25 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku; +81 (0)3 5412 0515
Royal CabaretThe Ruby Room, Shibuya
While its dilapidated sound system might suggest otherwise, The Ruby Room is one of the best spots in Tokyo for live music. The red and gold-trim interior of this American-style bar may have seen better days, but friendly staff and strong drinks ensure the atmosphere is always buzzing. In addition to club nights and beer pong competitions, regular open-mic and jam sessions augment a selection of monthly live events that showcase not only Tokyo’s hottest bands from rock to soul, but also plenty of expat musicians.
Average entry price: ¥1,500 (though some nights are free)
Kasumi Building 2F, 2-25-17 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku; +81 (0)3 3780 3022
FrottageMarble, Shinjuku
While its big-sister venues Marz and Motion are on the same street, Marble is a great place to check out the young punk-pop bands that may be bothering the charts in two years’ time. A fun and spunky array of noisenik minors can be found on Marble’s stage, and its overpowered PA will rattle the ears of even the sturdiest gig-goer. Catch the future of Tokyo’s underground scene while they’re still foetal.
Average entry price: ¥2,000
Shinjuku Just Building B1F, 2-45-2 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku; +81 (0) 3 5272 3558
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