Nikko: Japanese history in the great outdoors
Two hours north of Tokyo, the city of Nikko in Tochigi Prefecture offers visitors a two-for-one package of Japanese history lesson and lush mountain retreat. Unlike Kyoto and Kamakura's urban setting for Old Japan, Nikko's UNESCO World Heritage-listed shrines and temples are situated against a stunning backdrop of ancient cedar forests and idyllic waterfalls. Modern life rarely creeps in to ruin the mood.
In line for the shrines
Walking up to Nikko National Park from the Tobu train station, the first site of importance is the red-lacquered Sacred Bridge arching across the Daiya River. While the design of the bridge is relatively minimal, the stunning peaks above and crystal clear river below make the landmark a perfect introduction for what is to follow.
Nikko's three most famous sights are Toshogu Shrine, Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple, all of which can be entered with the convenient ¥1,000 Nikko Pass.
Tosho-gu is the over-the-top, Chinese-inspired burial place of 17th century shogun supreme Ieyasu Tokugawa. With red-lacquered corridors, almost 2.5 million sheets of gold leaf and intricate carvings on every inch of its vast surface area, this is seriously old school bling bling. The building strikes a huge contrast with the modest, austere style of most Japanese temples and shrines. Climbing the 200 stairs to Ieyasu’s tomb will cost you an extra ¥520, but it's worth it to see where the great unifier of Japan rests in peace.
The Sacred Stable is always surrounded by a throng of tourists jostling to snap a picture of the three iconic monkeys acting out the famous "hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil" mantra. Up until the Muromachi period, the stable keepers always had a monkey around, but alas, the site is now sadly simian free.
A day trip to Nikko should also include wandering off the tourist path. There are dozens of smaller temples and shrines littering the park area, all ready for your exploration. While these holy places are neither extravagant nor famous, they can offer a fun and slightly spiritual way to hike up the mountains and get away from the crowds.
There are also 47 waterfalls in the Nikko area, with the most famous three being Kegon, Urami and Kirifuri. Hiking to these secluded locations can be a great way to take a break from the history lesson.
Eating and shopping
The famed dish of the area is Nikko yuba -- yuba being the skin that forms on top when making tofu. Fried yuba is especially accessible.
For those who want to replace mountain-climbing stamina, we recommend a beef-heavy lunch at the elegant Kanaya Hotel (tel. 0288 54 0001, www.kanayahotel.co.jp). Kanaya looks like a hybrid between a traditional Japanese house and the kind of resort hotel that would appear in a Fitzgerald novel. Staying at the Kanaya is not cheap, but Nikko visitors should take the hike up the hill to at least check out the down-homey lobby.
The road leading from the historical attractions back to the station is quaint and well-maintained, especially in comparison to the over-commercialized o-miyage shops of other tourist towns. Pop into the antique and secondhand shops to rummage through formerly-loved cast-offs and pick up some special mizu yokan for the people you left behind in Tokyo. (And maybe some Kanto Tochigi Lemon for the kids.)
Autumn's the best time to visit Nikko, but dress warmly: The temperature is more Hokkaido than Tokyo.
getting there
There are now direct trains from Asakusa to Nikko on Tobu Railway (¥2,720 one-way). Only catch: There's one train, and it leaves at 7:30am. Otherwise you will have to transfer in Shimo-Imaichi, which, all things considered, is relatively painless. Getting home on a direct train can be tricky too, so make sure to schedule the return train ahead of time.
JR trains are also available, but not particularly convenient (lots of transfers) and can be almost double the price of Tobu.
For more guides to Tochigi, check out Welcome to Utsunomiya -- gyoza town and our Snack Nation review of Kanto Tochigi Lemon.
