Bloodless bullfighting in Okinawa

No Matador here, just two bulls going head to head.

At a bullfight in Okinawa there is no Matador, no weapons and visitors who expect bloodshed would be disappointed. Those interested in blood sports would be better off watching humans in a boxing ring. A bullfight in Okinawa is a bout between two bulls, similar to Japanese Sumo wrestling only these contestants may each weigh a ton.

The sport has been a pastime of farmers in the Ryukyu Islands at least as far back as the 17th century and could be seen at any one of a dozen outdoor arenas on the main island of Okinawa most Sunday afternoons. In recent years, most of the matches have been held at the Ishikawa Multipurpose Dome in Uruma City. It is a large cement structure providing seating for up to 3,000 spectators and shelter from the harsh summer sun as well as protection from rain.

Eisa Dancers perform in the evening before a championship bullfight.

An 18 meter earthen ring, surrounded by iron railings protects the crowd should a bull decide to leave the match and join the spectators sitting in the concrete bleachers above. The day of a scheduled bullfight, or the evening before, there is usually a pep-rally of sorts, held where a traditional dance called Eisa is performed in the ring. Youth from different villages dance, play drums, whistle, chant and display their village banners. The sights and sounds of these spirited dancers are as much a part of the island culture as the bullfights. It would be wise to verify when they're being held so you don't miss them.

Just as Sumo Wrestlers employ salt prior to a match to ward off evil spirits, a display of salt is placed in the arena at the start of a bullfighting competition. The stadium fills with villagers supporting their teams, a few quick announcements are made over an ear-piercing loudspeaker system and the matches are ready to begin.

The arena, bulls and their handlers.

There will be 10 bouts of bullfighting. Each bull is accompanied into the ring by a team of four or five handlers. The bulls have a line tethered to a ring in their nose. Only one trainer or handler at a time is permitted at the bull’s side during the fight. The other handlers wait on the sidelines and will take turns handling the bull depending on how long the match lasts. Some fights are only a few seconds or minutes. Others may last half an hour or more. The winner of the match will be determined by a panel of three judges sitting high above in the bleachers, but it is usually evident which bull loses the match -- whichever one decides to turn tail and run for the exit.

Bulls with a line tethered to their noses are brought head to head.

Inexperienced bulls are kept tethered throughout the match; the ones who have been doing this for a while are not tethered and charge straight for their opponent without being led. The handlers shout encouragement and jump around usually creating more action than the bulls which have locked horns and are practically motionless as they strain against their opponent. Some of the trainers are even barefooted in the arena with their bulls.

Barefooted bull handlers.

At the end of each bout, the loser is escorted outside the ring, while the winner is draped in a cape and paraded around the ring for a quick victory lap. Often a jubilant team handler jumps on for a ride or has his children ride on the bull for a photo.

A victory ride for the family of the winning team.

Just as in Sumo, the Grand Champion is called a Yokozuna. When the event has ended everyone wants to get close, pat the winner or pose for a photo with the champion.

More Information:
Tickets at the entrance sell for ¥2,000-3,000.
Refreshments are available on the second level surrounding the arena:
Soft drinks ¥150, noodles and vegetables (yakisoba) ¥500, grilled chicken kebobs (yakitori) ¥500.

Location:
About an hour's drive north of Naha International Airport just off Exit #6 on the Okinawa Expressway.
Ishikawa Multipurpose Dome in Uruma City

Schedules and links:
Bullfight Schedule at Ishikawadome Uruma City, Okinawa, Japan: www2u.biglobe.ne.jp
Bullfight on June 20, 2010 (Father's Day): www.mccsokinawa.com

About the author: Michael Lynch is a photographer and freelance writer living in Okinawa, Japan. Published in numerous magazines, he is a regular contributor to Apogee Photo Magazine, The Matador Travel Network, Pocket Cultures and writes the weekly Camera Talk Blog for In The Know Traveler.


For more information, visit www.mikesryukyugallery.com.


Michael submitted this piece as part of CNNGo’s CityPulse section. To find out what other stories we are looking for, go to our CityPulse page.