All along the watchtower in Hachioji
Four hundred years ago, Hachioji's Shiroyama-kawa river ran red with blood.
In the mid-1580s, the Hojo, the most powerful clan in the Kanto region, transformed an entire mountain here in Hachioji into an impregnable fortress. But less than a decade later, on June 23, 1590, it fell under a withering attack by rival forces who were far better equipped. The winning side left nothing standing in their wake, burning the fortress castle to the ground and staining the mountain red with the blood of the defenders.
Legend has it that the wife of the castle's Lord Ujiteru spent the rest of her life playing the flute in the forests here to ease the souls of the more than 25,000 who died that day, including her husband. For much of the next 400 years, the ruins lay almost totally undisturbed, treated as a forbidden ground for the massacre that had occurred there.
Now, however, thanks to the efforts of a team of archaeologists, who began excavating the site in the 1980s, the ruins of Hachioji Castle have been transformed into a historical park for tourists. Quiet, with lush forests, open fields and easy access from downtown Tokyo, this once bloody battlefield is now one of the city's hidden gems.
A hiking trail winds its way from the entrance to the 'Hon-maru' (castle keep) at the top of the mountain, giving you a sense of the sheer size of the fortifications that once stood here. Quite a bit of the original foundations remain, including those of guardhouses, watchtowers and even a few rock-drop ambush traps. The remnants of soot and ash from the battle hundreds of years ago is still visible on some of the stonework.
Volunteer guides are on hand to give free guided tours of the site (in Japanese). Those who prefer to explore at their own pace or simply lounge around are free to do as they please. The open fields are perfect for picnic lunches -- just keep an eye peeled for the occasional monkeys, as this is probably the closest to Tokyo you can still regularly see them in the wild.
If you've got hiking boots and a taste for adventure, ask a guide to show you the hidden 'Tono no michi' (Liege-Lord's Trail) that snakes up the back side of the mountain. Both this trail and the main trail offer beautiful views of the surrounding city and countryside -- and a perfect chance to reflect on the brutal history that once unfolded in this quiet patch of the city.
Hachioji Castle Ruins: Moto Hachioji-cho 3-2715-2, 9am-4pm, free, www.city.hachioji.tokyo.jp/kyoiku/rekishibunkazai/004416.html
Access: JR Chuo Line to Takao Station, then take the #1 bus from the north exit, disembark at the Reienmae stop (霊園前) and follow the signs. Total travel time, roughly 1.5 hours from Shinjuku
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