Succulent surprises as Pierre Gagnaire returns to Tokyo

Fans of Pierre Gagnaire's iconoclastic modern French cuisine mourned the closing of his first Tokyo restaurant last year, but we have some good news: The three Michelin-starred chef is back, at the ANA InterContinental Tokyo. Located on the 36th floor of the hotel, the new Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo features a sophisticated interior with panoramic views of the Tokyo cityscape.

Often credited as the creator of contemporary French fusion, Gagnaire is one of the biggest names in the world of haute cuisine. Diners were shocked when his Minami-Aoyama restaurant shut its doors last summer, and many feared that the global recession might prevent a second venture. Could the reopening be a sign that business is picking up for high-end restaurants? 

"Although the economic climate is certainly challenging in many ways, the hotel is experiencing positive results, with early indicators showing recovery," says Sayuri Koga, director of public relations for the ANA InterContinental Tokyo. "We feel that there will always be a market for exceptional dining experiences in Tokyo."

The 59-year-old Gagnaire is determined to deliver an exceptional dining experience at Pierre Gagnaire Tokyo, and the food does not disappoint.

His secret weapon is the element of surprise. Accents are precise and purposeful. A bite-sized square of marshmallow, topped with tomato confit, conceals pinpricks of flavor -- tarragon and onion -- within its core of sweetness. A creamy blob of rabbit rillette is laced with an invigorating flash of rosemary that tastes almost like ginger. A subtle appetizer of tabaragani crab, raw and poached asparagus and a scoop of green asparagus ice cream is counterpoised by an intense cardamom-infused white asparagus veloute sauce.

Beautifully presented and full of dynamic contrasts, the Cocktail de Poche course of small appetizers is an elaborate spread of colorful dishes.  A concentrated soup flavored with maccha green tea and ground almonds is sweet and dessert-like. Finely chopped marinated mushrooms, served with two slices of tender octopus, are satisfyingly savory.

Even seemingly simple dishes come with whimsical additions. The juicy pork chop, offset by a vibrant slaw of red cabbage, thinly sliced chorizo and cilantro, is delicious on its own. But the terrine of pork trotter and tongue, wedged in a pillowy squid-ink potato mousseline, is an added bonus.

Of course, this culinary elegance comes at a price. Lunch sets start at ¥6,000, although there is a special weekday-only business lunch for ¥3,800. At night, tasting menus are available from ¥18,000. And note: An additional 10 percent service charge will be added to the bill.