Emilia

Emilia is relaxed, casual and a first-class kitchen -- a combination our experts heartily approve of. “The chef spent several years in northern Italy's Emilia region perfecting his pasta-making techniques, and his menu focuses on that region and nearby Piedmont, with a smattering of dishes from other parts of the country,” says Robb Satterwhite, author and manager of Bento.com.

The mixed appetizer platter offers vigorous but bite-sized portions of parmesan gelato, polenta, liver pate and marinated sardines, depending on the day.

The smoked gizzard is tender and delightful, and the ratatouille and marinated fish are suitably restrained, not veering into tartness, as they sometimes can.

The wine list offers a selection adequate for all, with ample options under ¥7,000, along with more expensive bottles. 

“The tortellini stuffed with spinach and ricotta is a good demonstration of the chef's pasta prowess, and the home-made focaccia doesn't disappoint,” Satterwhite says.

But what wins it for Emilia is their range of game birds -- guinea fowl, Barbary duck and squab -- from a small farm in Ibaraki Prefecture and the pride of the menu. “They are all are quite skillfully prepared,” says Satterwhite. “The tender roast squab, served very rare, is small in size but packs intense flavor in every bite.”

The game birds come with accompanying vegetables -- turnips, roasted baby corn, baked onion -- perfectly succulent with not a hint of dryness.