Tangled up in brew: Tokyo's top craft beer bars

Of all the things the Japanese enjoy miniaturized, the beer brewing process hasn’t historically been one of them. But 15 years ago, Japanese politicians finally dropped the draconian laws prohibiting micro-brewing, and now a small but vibrant Japanese craft beer scene is flourishing. Called ji-biiru -- 'local beer' -- these small labels are now brewed around the country.

Finding somewhere to drink them, though, can be a challenge, as the big breweries wield a great deal of power through their contracts with restaurants and bars –- making it difficult for either to stock beer from smaller companies.

Most of the venues that do serve micro-brews are specialist outlets run by enthusiasts and don’t sell what one owner described as 'industrial beers.'

The granddaddy of these establishments is Popeye (Ryogoku 2-18-7, Sumida-ku, tel. 03 3633 2120, www.40beersontap.com), located in Ryugoku, around the corner from the Tokyo sumo stadium. Owner Tatsuo Aoki is something of a legend in craft beer circles and is also one of the founders of a craft beer festival that was once held at Popeye until it got too big. 

"I’ve been running Popeye since 1985; it used to be a regular pub, but when craft beers appeared I started shifting gradually over, and now that’s all we sell," explained Aoki.

As the website’s URL suggests, Popeye has at least 40 craft beers on tap, including local stalwart Yona Yona Pale Ale. Also available are White Beer and the intriguing Espresso Stout, both from the Hitachino Nest stable of Kiuchi brewery -- originally a sake maker -- which has successfully exported its beers to the U.S. in recent years.

Open 5pm-1am (Saturdays 5pm-2am). Closed Sundays

Ushi-Tora (Sankyu Building 2F, 2-9-3 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, tel. 03 3485 9090, ushitora.jp), across town in Shimo-kitazawa, represents the next generation of craft beer aficionados, run by a couple of thirtysomethings who describe themselves as 'beer otaku.' Tucked away in a tiny square a short walk from the south exit of Shimo-kitazawa station, the atmosphere is laid back with beer being the only thing taken seriously.

"We serve only draft micro-brews, and though we concentrate on Japanese beers, we do have guest brews from around the world," explained co-owner Shinsuke Yoshida.

"We try to get beers that you can’t find anywhere else," said his partner, Akio Terasaki

The beer selection changes nightly -- updated on Ushi-Tora’s homepage daily -- and there are always around 30 varieties available. Yona Yona Pale Ale is on heavy rotation, alongside its brother porter Tokyo Black (both hail from Nagano, ironically). Also look out for the Imperial Smoked Porter from Mie and regular guest beers from the U.S., including Dorado Double IPA.  

The menu is, of course, designed with beer in mind and includes such delicacies as miso pizza.

Open everyday 5pm-2am

The Kura-Kura bar (3F 1-4-6 Kachijo, Chiyoda Ku, tel. 03 6206 8866) used to be just around the corner from Ushi-Tora but has since moved to a new location in Kanda. The pub boasts a 'perfect beer server' machine, which delivers 12 craft beers on tap, including Rising Sun Pale Ale from the Baird Brewery -- the nation’s only microbrewery run by a Westerner -- and Minoh Pale Ale from AJI Beer in Osaka.

Non-smokers can also enjoy the novelty of a tobacco-free Tokyo bar.

Open 5-11:30pm, Saturdays 4-11:30pm, Closed Sundays and holidays