Bar Albatross: A little glamour in Memory Lane

Bar Albatross is one of the better drinkeries located in Shinjuku's Omoide-Yokocho area -- now known in English as "Memory Lane" in a re-branding away from its original name "Piss Alley." Once through the doors of Albatross, the heavy clouds of burning soy sauce smoke from nearby yakitori stands dissipate and a more refined atmosphere unfolds.

The bar's claustrophobic blood red interior feels like a surreal set piece from David Lynch's "Blue Velvet." With low hanging chandeliers, everything is awash in a glow of red while Desmond Dekker rocksteady blares out from the stereo. Here groups of salarymen and other workers from Shinjuku mingle with foreign artists, student couples and lone drinkers.

Those sitting on the second floor have to order drinks through a hole in the floor, which are later passed up from the bar counter below. Sit on the roof to enjoy one of the most dangerous views in Tokyo. Without permission, the bar has built two wooden bench seats on the roof -- just above the chaos of the world's busiest train station, but low enough to be bathed in Shinjuku’s neon glow. This may be the perfect place to spend long and lazy summer nights.

The wide selection of drinks at Albatross -- including Japanese shochu, sake and plum umeshu -- go for around ¥700 each, but you will also have to pay a one-off ¥300 "snack charge."  But this is worth it to enjoy one of Tokyo’s most unique drinking spots. Just don’t tell the authorities about the homemade rooftop terrace.

Note: Albatross is actually a group of three bars and the only chain to exist simultaneously in Shinjuku's two small-bar zones: Omoide-Yokocho and Golden Gai. The two Albatross bars in Golden Gai (began in 2002 and 2007) sit on top of one another. Inside you’ll find a similar sensibility: a red glow, chandeliers, a dense lazy air.