Tokyo today
The dense, modern megalopolis of Tokyo is home to roughly 12 million people, with 34 million in the immediate Kanto area.
Tokyo has markedly fewer historical landmarks than other world capitals, but this gives visitors more time to walk around the distinct neighborhoods and mingle with locals in their technologically advanced, ultra-consumerist environment.
Plan to dedicate as much time to shopping as to museums -- Tokyo has more stores from more brands than anywhere else on earth.
Getting in and out
By Air
Tokyo has two major airports: Haneda and Narita.
Haneda is relatively close to central Tokyo and handles mostly domestic flights. A few flights from Asian cities, such as Seoul, Shanghai and Hong Kong, also fly into Haneda. The Keihin Kyuko Railway and Tokyo Monorail connect Haneda to the rest of the city. 'Limousine buses' travel directly to most neighborhoods for around ¥1000.
Narita is Tokyo's major international hub, an hour outside of Tokyo proper by train. From Narita, taxis into the city cost upwards of ¥22,000. Limousine buses cost ¥3,000 and travel directly to most major neighborhoods and hotels. Two express trains -- the JR Narita Express (from ¥3,000) and Keihin Skyliner (¥1,980) -- get into the city in under one hour.
Trips Outside of Tokyo
The JR rail line connects Tokyo to almost everywhere in the country, but can be expensive for even short distances. Visitors entering Japan on tourist visas can purchase a JR Rail Pass before arrival, allowing unlimited travel on JR railways for a limited period of time. The shinkansen bullet trains are especially good for tourist travel, connecting Tokyo with the Kansai region (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe and Nara) in two and a half hours.
Long distance buses are also an option for popular destinations such as Kyoto and Hida-Takayama. Many night buses leave Shinjuku at around 10-11pm and arrive at resort destinations the following morning.
Getting around
By foot: Tokyo neighborhoods are meant to be traversed on foot. There is no need to rent a car to get around.
By train and subway: The public transit system in Japan is the envy of the world. Trains run almost perfectly on time, and stations are immaculate. The vast number of JR, subway, and private lines can get confusing, but train attendants are always on hand to offer advice on the easiest way to get to a destination.
By bus: Buses are plentiful and generally cost around ¥200, but run sporadically and routes can get confusing. Ask the bus driver whether the bus is going to your intended destination before boarding.
By taxi: Compared with most cities, taxis in Tokyo are expensive. Meters drop at ¥710 and rates skyrocket from there. Due to heavy traffic, taxis are often slower and less reliable than trains.
By car: Rental cars are rarely needed in Tokyo, but can be useful for reaching out-of-town destinations. Hertz (+81 (0) 120 489 882) is one of many rental options.
Language
Japanese is the primary language. Few people speak other languages, including English, with any fluency. Most major signage, however, will have romanized text for non-Japanese visitors. Signs in areas with large Korean populations will often have Hangul text, as well. It's helpful to show a written address or Japanese text to a taxi driver or someone you've asked for directions.
Good to know
- Don't count on taxi drivers speaking English or understanding non-Japanese pronunciations of Japanese words. Be sure to carry destination details or even an address written in roman characters.
- Japanese New Year (Dec. 31 to around Jan. 5) is the most important holiday season of the year. Many establishments will be closed during this period.
- Smoking is permitted inside bars and restaurants, but it is considered bad manners to smoke while walking on city streets. Some neighborhoods will levy fines for smoking while walking. Japan is no longer as open to smoking as in years past, so make sure to ask before lighting up.
- Tokyo is not known for traffic jams, but cabs are always chancy. Trains almost always run precisely on schedule.
- No tipping. If you leave a tip, a frantic waiter might run after you to return your forgotten money. High-end restaurants, however, sometimes add gratuity charges onto bills.
- Electricity is 100 volts and 50 hz in eastern Japan including Tokyo and 60hz in western Japan (Osaka). U.S.-style two-prong plugs work fine, but adapters are needed for grounded three-prong plugs.
- Japan's country code is +81. For Tokyo, the area code is 03 (drop the 0 if calling from overseas). Local calls in Tokyo drop the 03.
- Japan is 9 hours ahead of GMT.
- The Japanese are extremely polite, courteous people, so line up at the back of queues and don't elbow your way to the front. Except, of course, during rush hour on overcrowded trains, when it's every man for himself.
- Leave no footprints -- literally. Always take your shoes off when entering someone's home, and sometimes, restaurants and store changing rooms. Make sure to wear clean socks without holes.
- Gift etiquette is taken to new levels in Japan, so be armed with a stack of presents upon arrival. Souvenirs should be purchased even on day trips and given to anybody who has helped you out during your stay in Tokyo.
- Carry a stash of business cards -- you will be handing out bundles. Always present and receive them with two hands on the card.
Where to stay
Imperial Hotel: Historic and prestigious hotel near Ginza. 1-1-1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 3504 1111
Grand Hyatt Tokyo: Centrally located luxury hotel frequented by business travellers and convention attendees. 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-Ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 4333 1234
Peninsula Hotel: Luxury without pointless frills. 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 6270 2888
Hotel Okura: Famous for retro-Japanese aesthetics and traditional 'Japanese hotel' experience. 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 3582 0111
Conrad Tokyo: Chic boutique hotel atop a Shiodome skyscraper. 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 6388 8000
Park Hotel Tokyo: High-end hotel experience at reasonable rates. Conveniently located near Shinbashi station. Shiodome Media Tower, 1-7-1, Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 6252 1111
Granbell Hotel: Arty business hotel with locations in Shibuya and Akasaka. 15-17 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 5457 2681
What to do
In the city
Asakusa: Tokyo's classic 'downtown' with a friendly, earthy vibe and lots of temples and shrines that impart a sense of old Edo culture.
Shibuya and Harajuku: These two adjacent shopping neighborhoods are the center of youth culture for Japan. Shibuya is more on the grungy side, while Harajuku is fashionable and refined. There are, quite possibly, more fashion stores here than anywhere else on earth. Meiji Jingu Shrine is right in the middle of the two, and an easy side trip to 'old Japan.'
Omotesando and Aoyama: Adjacent to Harajuku, these two areas house major European luxury-brand shops, as well as boutiques from international designer brands such as Comme des Garçons.
Tsukiji Fish Market: The jet-lagged get up at 4am to see the tuna auction in the morning, then stick around for a fresh sushi breakfast.
Ryogoku: The Ryogoku area is home to a sumo wrestling stadium (tournaments are seasonal) and Edo-Tokyo Museum, which presents recreations of life in the city from different historical periods.
Ginza: Once the center of Western-influenced culture in the city, Ginza is now a mecca for luxury brand shops, traditional art galleries and other stops popular with wealthy Japanese.
Kabukicho: A red-light district, but a relatively safe and vibrant area that explodes with revelers at night.
Akihabara: Tokyo's 'Electric Town' and home to otaku 'nerd' culture.
Day trips
The following popular locations make for easy day trips from Tokyo.
Yokohama: Although technically a separate city in a separate prefecture, Yokohama blends straight into Tokyo's sprawl. The city is worth a visit for its harbor area, upscale malls, expansive Chinatown and a few historic Western-style buildings. Travel time: 30 minutes (one-way)
Mt. Takao: A scenic mountain west of the city, suitable for visits throughout the year. Those looking for exercise can hike to the top, while more leisure-minded visitors can take a funicular most of the way up. Travel time: 45 minutes (one-way)
Kamakura: This beach-side resort was the medieval capital of Japan. It's now a place to visit the temples and shrines of 'old Japan' without going all the way to Kyoto. Travel time: one hour (one-way)
Hakone: An upscale hot spring resort in the mountains. Travel time: one hour and 30 minutes (one-way)
Mt. Mitake/Okutama: Area of west Tokyo with beautiful mountains and rivers. Mt. Mitake combines mountain hiking with shrines, waterfalls and unique inns at the summit. Travel time: one hour and 30 minutes (one-way)
Nikko: A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this mountain city in Tochigi is home to numerous temples and shrines. There are also many hot springs around the city and plenty of natural beauty. Travel time: two hours (one-way)
Izu Peninsula: Cities in Izu such as Atami, Ito and Izu-Kogen offer hot springs and beaches within easy reach of Tokyo. Travel time: around one hour and 45 minutes (one-way)
Where to eat
Tsukiji area: Sushi central for Tokyo, featuring fish straight off the boats. Walking distance from Ginza.
Aronia de Takazawa: Super-exclusive Japanese haute cuisine. Book several months in advance. Sanyo Akasaka Building 2F, Akasaka 3-5-2, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 3505 5052
Innsyoutei: Scenic Japanese restaurant serves macrobiotic Buddhist vegetarian meals in the kaiseki style. Bookings in advance are essential. 4-59 Ueno-Koen, Taito-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 3821 8126
Yoshimura Soba: Rustic noodle shop in the western suburb of Kichijoji makes the finest soba buckwheat noodles in Japan. The sake selection is also superb. 2-29-8 Kichijoji-Minami-cho, Musashino-shi, tel. +81 (0) 422 43 1717
Kyubey: Famed sushi restaurant. 7-6 Ginza 8-chome, Chuo-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 3571 6523
Toshi Yoroizuka: Grand patissier makes amazing cakes for afternoon tea. Tokyo Midtown location, Tokyo Midtown East 1F, 9-7-2 Akasaka, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3 5413 3650
Where to drink
Le Baron de Paris: Exclusive nightclub in Omotesando with lush interiors. Aoyama Center Bldg B1F, Minami-Aoyama 3-8-40, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3-3408-3665
Golden Gai: Rows of tint, eclectic bars, each with a speciic theme, next to Kabukicho's red-light district. Shinjuku East-side.
Dragonfly Café: Arty coffee spot in Aoyama. Minami Aoyama 3-13-14, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3-5412-7527
Office: Trendy upstairs bar with great design and lots of art books for browsing. Yamazaki Bldg. 5F 2-7-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3-5786-1052
Vinoteca: Classy wine bar in Tokyo Midtown. Tokyo Midtown Garden Terrace 2F, 9-7-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku, tel. +81 (0) 3-5647-8301
Where to shop
Shopping areas
Ginza: Upscale shopping neighborhood filled with department stores, high-end fashion flagship stores and art galleries.
Aoyama/Omotesando: Boutiques from the most expensive luxury brands and daring fashion designers.
Shinjuku: Department stores such as Isetan and Mitsukoshi, as well as luxury brand shops.
Jimbocho: Used books, old ukiyoe and maps.
Daikanyama: Fashion retail targeted at dainty young women.
Gifts
Tokyo is a shopping paradise, but finding adequately 'Japanese' gifts -- such as kimono, yukata or pearls -- can be difficult. The most stereotypical Japanese gifts can be found in tourist traps such as the mall beneath the Yurakucho train tracks or Oriental Bazaar in Omotesando.
Here are a few 'Japanese' gift ideas that are actually prized in contemporary Japan:
Tenugui: Traditional Japanese cotton towels with bold patterns
Teapots: Kyusu -- especially those made from heavy iron -- can be found for reasonable prices at any department store.
Stationery: The Japanese are serious about stationery, and Tokyo book and stationery stores offer the best paper and pads from around the world.
Sake/shochu: High-quality sake and shochu can be purchased for reasonable prices at any liquor store in Tokyo.
Health and fitness
If you’re looking for a workout, hotel gyms are usually the way to go. Several fitness chains are scattered around town, such as Tipness, with day rates available for visitors.
Running paths are common in city parks. The most famous and scenic path is the 5.3-km circuit around the moat at the Imperial Palace.
Business
- Introductions: Always introduce yourself first, and present your business card with both hands. Take a second to look at the other person's business card before putting it away.
- Names: Japanese naming convention is backwards from the West: family name then first name. Always call people by their last name with the suffix "-san" (e.g., "Yamada-san") or add a "Mr." to the beginning (e.g., "Mr. Yamada"). Do not use "-san" for anybody from your own company when talking about them to members of another company.
- Business attire: Japanese offices still require suits, and very conservative suits at that. For men, it's best to go with a navy blue, charcoal gray or black suit, white shirt and dark tie. Even in summer.
- Face: The concept of 'face' is a strong part of local business culture, so make sure no one loses face during any part of an interaction. Try to avoid disagreeing directly and being confrontational in discussions.
- Internet access: Free wireless spots are rare. Cafés sometimes offer Wi-Fi, but often do not advertise it. (See our list of three cafés for the business traveller.) All hotels provide internet service, sometimes for a charge.
Money
- Japanese yen comes in four paper bills (¥1000, ¥2000, ¥5000 and ¥10000) and six coins (¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500).
- ATMs rarely accept foreign cash cards. Citibank is located in most major areas and accepts most foreign cards, but has relatively high fees.
- Travellers checks can be cashed at most major banks.
- Japan is generally a cash society, although credit cards have become more common in recent years.
- When accepting payment with credit cards, cashiers will often ask how many portions to split the payment into, based on Japanese credit card conventions. You can always answer "one" for a standard credit-card transaction.
- There is no tipping. High-end restaurants, however, sometimes add a gratuity charge to bills.
Emergency info
In the event of an emergency, dial one of the following numbers:
- Police: 110
- Fire/Ambulance: 119
- Police inquiries (in English): 119
- Japan National Tourist Organization: 03 3201 3331
- Taxi lost and found: 03 3648 0300
