3 myths your Singapore bespoke tailor doesn't want you to know

"You'll be surprised, even shocked by how unscrupulous tailors here [in Singapore are], even the most reputable, expensive ones," said "Adam" (real name withheld), a middle-aged private tailor working out of his own apartment in one of Singapore's northern neighborhoods who spoke to CNNGo on condition of anonymity. "The industry is much too small -- it's much too easy to find out who is saying these things with only my first name."

We connected with "Adam" while researching a story for the best tailors in Singapore. He's a veteran of the industry, with over 20 years under his belt working for some of the most well-known tailor establishments, specializing in men's formal wear and business attire and serving only a handful of select customers. Chinese-educated and chatty, he's obviously well-versed in his trade, taking quick measurements while giving a running commentary of what makes a good bespoke suit. And it's exactly this knowledge that makes him privy to some of the shady business ploys using by the industry.

Caveat: These dirty trade secrets are related to us by Adam, and while efforts have been made to verify them, no tailor would readily admit to them. Obviously. So if you know anything different, drop us a line below -- we'd love to hear from you, even anything contrary to this article.

Myth #1 -- The 24-hour suit

All along Orchard Road and other retail malls in Singapore, there are stores advertising suits made in 24 hours. According to Adam, there's no such thing as a good quality 24-hour suit. "Quality and skill cannot be rushed. Any tailor with any experience needs a minimum of two fittings, usually three or more, to ensure that the suit jacket drapes correctly and pants sit well on the customer's frame," said Adam.

To speed up the process, shortcuts such as adhesive tape and loose stitching are used. Over time, after wearing for a while, the jacket loses its shape and pants are more prone to tearing and ripping at the seams. It's also more than likely that the whole suit won't fit as well as it should. "There's just no time to make adjustments and alterations, which every suit needs, without fail. These tailors are targeting tourists and business people with very limited time in Singapore, since they generally won't see these customers again ever," noted Adam.

Recommendation: What should you do if you need a suit done quickly then? The best option is to buy something off-the-shelf in the stores, and then bring it to a reputable tailor to make adjustments. This ensures that the work is done locally at least, and they likely won't be able to replicate the material. However, if you're not in a hurry, don't rush the process. The more time the tailor has, the better the results, and you won't be pressured to accept any shoddy work and move on. There's also ample time to alter the suit to your satisfaction and to your specific body type.

Myth #2 -- Made in Singapore

With many of the suit makers located in Chinatown and Peninsula (two popular areas for tailors), the bulk of their work (even the 24-hour suit) is done mainly in Bintan or Batam, where the main garment workshops are. Measurements are taken here and faxed or emailed across, then ferried to Singapore when completed. Most of the time, unless there's major alterations, minor adjustments will be made in Singapore. Why is this a big deal? Garment shops will jack up prices, quoting high labor costs of hiring skilled local tailors, then pocketing the difference. They will typically also exaggerate the amount of cloth needed, charging you for 3 meters when 2.5 meters are sufficient.

Recommendation: "Don't go to the shops in Chinatown or Peninsula Plaza," advises Adam. "They may be cheaper than most, but that because they skimp on the quality of cloth and labor. Theirs is a high-volume business since their margins are lower, and so they'd cut corners to make a living." He suggests that, if you want to make a cheaper suit, buy your own material or at least, a full set of jacket buttons. You might pay more for labor costs, but it's some assurance that you're getting the right material. It also makes it harder for them to replicate easily.

Myth #3 -- "We'll send your suit to Europe"

Many high-end establishments offer an extra service where they'd send your bespoke suit to a master tailor in England or Italy for final adjustments and to get an official "Made in England/Italy by XXX" label. "What happens is that they'd take the suit, stick it in the storeroom for 2-3 weeks, draw some chalk marks to make it look like it's been worked over, sew on the label (which they already have on hand) and whip up some forms to show that it's been 'checked' and ready to wear. All the while, the customer thinks he's paying for overseas couriers and the master tailor's services," said Adam. The fees' not cheap either, typically running a few hundred dollars.

Recommendation: Don't bother with this service. If you want a genuine made-in-Europe bespoke suit, make a trip down yourself. "Most of the time, if these customers can afford the few hundred extra just for this service, they can afford a trip down to England already," Adam pointed out, half-jokingly. He also noted that even the more established shops are guilty of this practice, although he wouldn't name names.

A parting word of advice -- "Don't be so fast to avoid heartland tailors. A lot of times, they're a lot more honest than city tailors, since they usually rely on repeat customers and will spend more time getting your suit, shirt or outfit right. Just look at me, working out of my HDB flat!" he laughs. But his clientele is no laughing matter, since he's dressed celebrities and top executives alike who want the assurance of his personal touch and skills.

Have a good or bad tailoring story or experience to share? Drop us a line and let's talk.