Food for the soul: Traditional breakfasts of Singapore

Everyone in Singapore swears by at least one breakfast comfort food, which they return to time and again. Chances are this will be a traditional dish which gave them cherished memories eating it when growing up.

Putu Mayam.

Indian

Roti prata is the indisputable pick. Nearly everyone enjoys watching the theatrics of the prata seller, who flips and swings the dough in mid-air, as much as eating the slivers of flaky crepes softened by curry dip. Native to Indians, the snack has fans beyond this group, and is definitely not confined to being eaten at breakfast.

What is limiting consumption is perhaps, its fat-laden contents. So on a regular basis, people opt for thosai or appam, lacy pancakes cooked with a little oil on heated griddles. As with most Indian food, these are accompanied by condiments -- coconut chutney, potato curry, dhal and sambar (spicy tomato dip).

For hearty servings, there is idli, steamed moist rice cakes eaten with chutneys. Upma is a grainy pudding spiced with mustard seeds, onions, ginger or cashew nuts.

Putu mayam or string hoppers, steamed fine vermicelli strands, is made of rice flour dough pressed through a sieve. Loved for its blend of saltiness, which comes from the noodles and grated coconut, and sweetness, from the orange-colored palm sugar.

For sweets, jalebi (pretzel-like pastry in sugar syrup), laddu (fried flour balls) and paayasam (glutinous rice-milk broth) are top choices.

Komala’s Indian Vegetarian: Northpoint Shopping Centre outlet, 930 Yishun Avenue 2, The Food Mall; tel: +65 6293 4464; www.komalasweb.com

Epok-epok.

Malay

Nowhere is coconut as prevalent as a food flavoring ingredient as in Malay (and maybe, Nyonya) cuisine. The abundance of coconut trees that line the coastline and Malaysian kampongs inspire culinary experiments. Singapore Malay food is very much influenced by those creations across the Straits.

Nasi lemak, coconut cream-coated rice, tinged with the scented banana leaf that wraps it, is addictive. The parcel, pre-packed with a spoonful of chilli-anchovy sambal sauce, a slice of cucumber and a ikan kuning, can be a complete meal in itself.

Without epok-epok, no breakfast is complete, some may declare. Stuffed with potato or sardine, the smell of spicy pastry in oil is intense and stimulates cravings.

Few can resist fried food; roti john is another. A section of French loaf sliced lengthwise, topped with a beef-onions-chilli spread on the soft side, secured by egg batter and turned downwards to sizzle in oil. Eaten hot with tomato sauce drizzled over the crust. 

Kuih kuih are connected to the coconut just as much. Mostly steamed rather than baked, with coconut milk for a springy texture and dusted over with grated coconut. Once sold at market stalls, these low-priced foods have gone high-end in the Bengawan Solo and Kueh Kampung bakery chains.

Kuih dadar are coconut-stuffed green spring rolls (in picture). Then, there are morsels such as kuih kaswi, coconut-coated teacup-size rice cakes. Pulut inti are rice pyramids topped with coconut. Kuih talam is a white coconut-flavored layer clubbed with a pandan-custard layer pudding. 

Kampung Kueh: Toa Payoh Bus Interchange #01=K1; tel: +65 6462 4072; open 9am-6pm
No Name Shop: Yishun Central Bus Interchange; open 9am-3pm
Shukor's Roti John: 49A Serangoon Garden Way, Stall #30 Serangoon Garden Market & Food Centre; tel: +65 9101 3066; open 9am-6pm

Chinese kueh.

Chinese

Porridge is surely the ultimate comfort food. A humble dish eaten plain during convalescence with a dash of soya sauce. But on happier occasions with pork or chicken shreds, boiled groundnuts, cuttlefish strips, youtiao, century eggs and garnished with shallots and spring onions. People sometimes long for food prepared in their own kitchens. KFC and McDonald's now added this dish to their menus, to cater to a growing niche.

Kaya roti-egg-coffee set, or variations of it, is a mainstay at many breakfast tables in various outlets, from dilapidated coffee shops, drinks stalls at foodcourts, to boutique cafés. Bite into the caramelised kaya-melting butter on slightly burnt toast, and you are lost in nostalgia, even if momentarily. 

Chwee kueh, steamed savory cakes, topped with diced preserved turnips, will appeal to those who enjoy chee cheong fun, steamed yam/radish cakes and teardrop-shaped glutinuous rice cakes.

Ang Ku Kueh has a wide selection of fillings -- groundnut, lotus paste and mung-bean paste (sweet and savory) to match its array of flour-skin wraps that come in green, purple, yellow and festive red. These are after all, traditional religious offerings and served during celebrations. Each generation defines its own brand of comfort food. Yet a selection of traditional foods have defied changing tastes and the revived interest in them has been surprising.

Tiong Bahru Chwee Kueh: Block 190 Toa Payoh Central, Lorong 6 #01-528, Ground Floor; Block 622, Hougang Avenue 8, Ground Floor Shophouse, Nonya Kueh Stall
Cake History (Central) Pte Ltd: Blk 644 Hougang Ave 8 #01-259 Singapore 530644; +65 6385 3819; open 6am-9:30pm
Bengawan Solo: Blk 500 Toa Payoh Lorong 6, #02-31 Toa Payoh Hub; tel: +65 6354 1079; open 10am-10pm
KFC: Northpoint Shopping Centre outlet, Yishun Avenue 2, B1; tel: +65 6754 0129
Yong Le Porridge: Block 924, Yishun Central, #01-322; open 9am-5pm
Ah Mei Café: Northpoint Shopping Centre, Yishun Avenue 2, 930 #02-21, 769098; tel: +65 6327 8030; www.banquet.com.sg; open 10am-10pm
Ya Kun Café: HDB Hub outlet, 490 Lorong 6 Toa Payoh #01-15 HDB Hub S(310490); tel: +65 6397 2234