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Is Peranakan food set to become the world's best cuisine?
It may well be, considering that Noma co-founder Claus Meyer will open a Peranakan eatery in his hometown of Copenhagen
Claus Meyer: Hardly a local baba boy, but who says he won't be able to take on the challenge of Peranakan cuisine?
Michelin-starred chef Claus Meyer's reply when asked why he loved Peranakan cuisine was short and to the point. Actually, his response included an adjective that almost rhymes with "cooking". But you get the point.
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Shared in an interview featured in the Straits Times' Life!, the 46-year-old co-founder of Danish fine-dining restaurant Noma is a man who knows good food. Noma has been hailed as the world's best restaurant two years in a row in the S.Pellegrino World's 50 Best Restaurants awards.
Meyer has also been instrumental in the revival of Nordic cuisine and ensuring its current prominence in global culinary circles.
This is the beef rendang as we know it. What Danish Claus Meyer will do to it remains to be seen.
Meyer won't be cooking up bowls of buah keluak (an aromatic meat dish made with black or dark brown nut from Indonesia) and chap chye (mixed vegetable stew) by himself, but together with Singapore Peranakan Tin Pang-Larsen and her Danish husband, Michael Larsen.
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They have been friends with Meyer for 20 years and previously ran a restaurant called Nams Kuisine in Copenhagen, serving food that followed recipes by Pang-Larsen's mother.
Much to many grandmothers' dismay, Meyer will be tweaking recipes to give them a touch of "the universal qualities of a new Nordic cuisine." All he's shared so far is that he'll be serving crudites with dishes of beef rendang, and chap chye made by stir-frying cabbage and tossed in at the last minute.
What Nordic cuisine and Noma -- famed for sending out plates of knife mussels wrapped in parsley gel -- has in common with Peranakan cuisine, characterized for its tangy, aromatic, spicy and hard-to-replicate flavors, remains to be seen.
But if the Danish Michelin-star chef pays attention to just one detail, it should be to perfect his rempah (a combination of spices pounded into a paste with pestle and mortar), as its specific texture and density is the measure by which Peranakan grandmothers will judge him.
And take it from a Peranakan, when it comes to food, you don't want to cross a Peranakan grandmother.
