Jimmy Chok is back, and this time he's going to make some money

Chefs exist in various guises.

At one end, there is the chef de cuisine -- an artist who dreams up the menu and translates it onto the plate. At the other end is the executive chef, who plays a business role and keeps an eye on the bottom line.

Somewhere in between lies the restaurateur chef: a chef who takes on the identity of a chef de cuisine but also plays the role of a profit manager.

This role dualism has led to the downfall of many chefs who have pursued the dream of owning their own restaurant. 

The cool interiors of Bistro Soori.

Going solo

But falling down does not always spell a fatal end to these dreams, judging by how Singaporean chef Jimmy Chok has resurrected his dream through his barely one-month old outfit, Bistro Soori.

Tucked at the corner of Teck Lim Road (off Keong Saik Road), the 20-plus seater has quietly opened its doors to customers, many of whom have quickly returned for second and third visits. 

Chok was one of the first celebrity chefs on our shores, before the term celebrity chef even became a plausible culinary term. After working his way through the kitchens in Raffles Hotel (1 Beach Road, tel +65 6337 1886) and the now closed Fig Leaf Restaurant, he left to eke his own name in 2002 with his own restaurant, Salt. 

A no-frills restaurant, it was a first in many ways. It was one of the first few restaurants owned and run by a Singaporean chef, in a climate where most successful eateries were helmed by Western chefs.

It was also the only restaurant that unabashedly called itself a fusion restaurant.

Ahead of his time

That sort of individualistic, dare-to-do attitude was personified by Chok who relentlessly experimented with Asian flavors, fusing them with European techniques, in dishes such as a lamb ravioli bathed in a Chinese-style herbal broth. 

Chok's independence also led him to explore beyond the kitchen, publishing cookbooks such "Simple: A Cuisine of a New Generation," and keeping in touch with his regulars through a private chef service.

The latter, which started out as a favor for his regulars, turned out to be a business that grew when Salt folded in 2005. To the surprise of many, after closing Salt Chok became executive chef of the low-key The Academy Bistro (1 Supreme Court Lane, Level 1, tel, +65 6332 4388) -- the only restaurant at the Supreme Court.

While many did not understand why he would step into the low-profile role, he knew. The mainly 9 a.m.-5 p.m. job allowed more family time, and gave him the chance to focus on his private chef dinners in the evenings, previously a side business, while also conducting cooking classes. 

Yet the nagging desire to have another restaurant did not go away. He knew he would want to set up his restaurant again. But this time he would be much wiser.

“Salt may have closed but there were many rich lessons I learnt, so I don’t regard it as a failure," says Chok.

"It was a success in the first year and we had many packed nights, but in the second year we lacked a plan to bring it to a higher level. When the economy dipped, my [silent] partners did not want to invest more funds."

"Looking back, we should have moved to a bigger location and grew as a restaurant. We should have had a master plan."

Bistro Soori: Expect artfully arranged meals.

Jimmy Chok version 2.0

With Bistro Soori, Chok has also gained the benefit of partner Chan Soo Khian's artistic touch on the design of the restaurant. Chan is the founder of SCDA Architects and owner of Alila Villas Soori, a luxury resort in Bali.

The modest space is bathed in plenty of natural sunlight, the sleek modern white marble decor is juxtaposed with subtle touches: a floral arrangement or artfully arranged bamboo leaves in glass jars. 

A bar counter area doubles up as a cooking studio (complete with gleaming Miele ovens) and graces the front part of the restaurant. A generously sized communal dining table (big enough for at least eight) is nestled among smaller tables.

The food is unmistakably Jimmy Chok: unusual and inspired. We sampled the sambal terasi -- a fermented ground shrimp paste, a recipe Chok learnt when he was consultant chef for one of the restaurants at Alila Soori -- and divine slow-cooked pork with a melt-in-the-mouth texture.

These elements, Chok happily adds, are whittled down for a gourmet sandwich lunch crowd. For dinner, don't be surprised by the trim menu. Chok is banking that customers will go for his five-course sets (starting from S$60 per person) or to take up the omakase-style concept that essentially leaves your meal in his hands.

In addition, he's also open to customers deciding how many courses they would like (from six to 12) but clarifies that more courses and more premium ingredients will lead to higher costs. 

The master plan

The big question then is how different is Bistro Soori from Salt?

“I'm using only premium ingredients, I'm practicing a 'less is more' style of cooking and refining the presentation," says Chok.

“Bistro Soori is a showcase of what I can do. My focus is still on private catering, especially since I have built up a following over the years."

So if you're in the market for a private dinner, Chok is your man. 

"If there is an event and there are no reservations, chances are that I will close the restaurant for the afternoon or night so that we can work on the catering event -- until I have confidence the kitchen team will deliver the same standards when I am away.” 

Chok's experience with Salt has also left him with a harder business attitude.

“I have also learnt to not give discounts or waive fees, even for regulars," says Chok. "I used to feel obligated to do that for those who asked, but I have come to realize it’s a business and we need to survive. If the customers respect the chef and the restaurant, they will pay.”

This sounds like a promising restaurateur-chef philosophy.