Shinji's sushi: Nearly the best Japanese food I've ever had

The end of July witnessed the opening of Shinji by Kanesaka at the Raffles Hotel with much fanfare.

Heralded as yet another star in the constellation of luminaries which have opened in nearby Marina Bay Sands and the slightly further away Resorts World Sentosa, Shinji’s reputation as a mecca for sushi and its commitment to quality promised to take Singapore’s sushi aficionados to dizzyingly new heights.

Within its first month in Singapore, Shinji had garnered an enviable amount of column space in the local media; all of which had one thing in common -- how absolutely fabulous it is. Amidst all this reverence, what else could I do? Having honed a habit of taking everything with a pinch of salt, I had little choice but to sample it for myself.

As they say, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

These culinary masters will make sure you have a meal you won't forget.

Austere and sophisticated space

But before I start talking about the fare, there must first be due appreciation shown for the dining space. With a seating capacity of about 40 people, the space is an exercise in restraint. 

Designed by Junzo Irikado, it treads a fine line between austerity and minimalist refined sophistication, not least because it transports you magically to Tokyo. As the doors slide silently behind you, you are escorted to your seats by kimono-clad ladies, and you become aware that you are about to partake in a rarefied experience.

Simple, elegant and beautiful in its spareness, it is the perfect setting for the exquisite ceramics and of course the food. The dining counter, crafted from the hinoki tree (Japanese cypress) is more than two centuries old and it is from this that your gastronomic journey will commence.

Deciding what to eat

Initially, I had planned to exercise some measure of moderation and intended to order the mid-price sushi set.

Upon entering however, those carefully considered plans were unceremoniously left at the door and I heard myself say to the smiling waitstaff, “We’ll have the omakase please.” 

At S$250 per person, it is undoubtedly nowhere near being mid-priced and after taxes, your bill would amount to S$588 (for two) or more if you order beer or sake.

So fresh you might as well be at Tsukiji Fish Market.

A priceless omakase experience

Before you dismiss Shinji as being unreasonably overpriced, you must be aware that this is not your average sushi place. 

And to be fair, there is always the more affordable setsugetsuka sushi set at S$75 if you do not want to break the bank. 

The omakase experience however is priceless. In the main dining area, the counter is helmed by a trio of chefs who will individually craft your delectable morsels for you by hand, partly for your viewing pleasure. This alone is a joy to watch. As for the food, suffice to say that my taste buds were titillated to bits!

The first course was a chilled edamame soup crested with a small serving of ikura, a more than promising start to what eventually turned into a languid and indulgent lunch. As a prelude to the sushi, we were served some of the freshest tasting sashimi ever, a grilled scallop enveloped in crisp nori, lightly baked sayuri, and a raw oyster in its shell, with a dash of a delightfully piquant sauce.

As for the sushi, the star line-up included one portion each of toro, chu-toro, marinated maguro, flounder, ebi (prawn), Japanese sardine, uni, ikura, Japanese clam, anago (with a pinch of salt), ika and baby shrimp. All this was followed by three types of maki, including one with diced chu-toro. And yes, the ever-so-slightly warm rice is as lovely as everyone says.

The meal was brought to a close with a bowl of steaming, freshly made miso and a plate of chilled nashi (Japanese pear).

The closest to Japan you'll get

As I sat, happily ensconced in my food-induced reverie, watching the chefs displaying their polished skills and charm to other diners, I couldn't help likening it to a quiet dance performance; poetry in motion. With every deft movement and each subtle flick of the wrist, a small gustatory delight arrives at your plate.

Overall, the quality of the fare was excellent and service, impeccable and almost invisible, with fine cups of hot ocha magically replaced rather than refilled. It was pretty much a perfect meal. 

Was it the best Japanese meal I have ever had? Probably not as I still think that those I had in Tokyo and Kyoto are incomparable. But, Shinji comes very close and it’s much more convenient than flying to Japan.

Open Monday - Saturday, noon-3 p.m. (lunch), 6-10:30 p.m. (dinner). Closed on Sundays. Shinji by Kanesaka, Raffles Hotel #02-20, 1 Beach Road, Singapore 189673; tel. +65 6338 6131; email: reservations@shinjibykanesaka.com; www.shinjibykanesaka.com