Top togs: Trip to the fabric market not required

Like many expats, American Dan Washburn had some cheap suits made at the fabric market when he first arrived in China eight years ago. But, “as you mature, you worry more about fit and you want a suit to last longer,” he said. “You want to feel confident that your designer understands modern fashion and taste.” 

Now, Washburn turns to Shanghai tailor Lu Xiao Yu for a more sophisticated, lasting approach to clothes making. We checked in with Lu and several other Shanghai tailors who offer the best in custom-made fashion. 

The stylist: Xiao Yu

Lu Xiao Yu uses his stylist background to give customers a more personal approach to fashion. “When I meet a new client, within 10-15 minutes, I catch their style,” he said. “I can make tailor-made clothes to suit their own body and style.” 

If a customer has a classier appearance, he’ll make sure the cut and fabric work toward that. If they give off a young and hip vibe, he’ll follow more innovative European designs and use edgier fabrics. Along with basic tailoring for mostly foreign customers, Lu also works on special event fashions for Chinese celebrities: “Asia celebrities like very crazy, flashy designs for the stage.”

Specialties: Evening ware and stylish cocktail dresses are his favorite. He also does regular suits and wedding dresses.
Sample pricing: Mid-level suit: RMB 1,000; long evening dress: RMB 1,000
XY Creations, Rm 100, 88 Fengxian Lu, near Shimen Er Lu 奉贤路88号, 石门二路, +86 130 0219 5532, xiaoyush@gmail.com

The classical tailor: Dave Shiung

For years, men have turned to Dave’s for quality and suits that last. “Men who bought a suit in their 20s or 30s can still wear it when they’re old,” says eponymous owner Dave Shiung, who was born in Taiwan. He learned the tailor trade when he was 15 from a Shanghai master, and later followed his customers to the mainland. His Shanghai outpost attracts mostly foreign clients who are interested in high-end materials and detailed tailoring -- and who are willing to pay for it.

Shiung, 62, had planned to retire but the new generation of Chinese looking for well-made classic suits is slowly emerging. Now, instead of relaxing, Shiung is planning new stores for the future. “I have to act like I’m 42, not 62,” he says with a laugh.

Specialties: Men’s suit coats and shirts (no women’s suits).
Sample Pricing: RMB 4,000-18,000
Dave’s Custom Tailoring, 288 Wuyuan Lu, No. 6, near Yongfu Lu 五原路288号, 近永福路 +86 21 5404 0001

The fashionista: Ally

Ally started tailoring in China a decade ago but quickly realized she wanted to do more than just adjust hems. She moved to Australia to go to fashion school where she refined her approach to fashion and design and reopened her boutique in 2008.

“My brand reflects my ability to understand the customer’s needs,” she said.

Ally’s Nanchang Lu studio is covered with stacks of colorful fabric and a board with cut-out runway images. She has sketches of new designs with fabric swaths pinned to the side. And if customers need any more inspiration, she has dresses, coats, qipaos and sparkling tank tops on display.

Specialties: Dresses, qi paos and coats
Sample Pricing: Dresses from RMB 800-1,000 depending on fabric; coats from RMB 1,000-2,000 depending on material.
潘丽萍（Ally), ShangHai D.Y.L, 158 Nanchang Lu, near Sinan Lu 南昌路158号, 近思南路 +86 21 6384 8499