My search for Shanghai's hottest granny
I came, I search, I found my Shanghai hot granny. Isn't she a looker?This winter was characterized by one thing other than cold temperatures: my search for one of Shanghai’s hottest grannies.
For almost two months, I was on a one-woman bender to find a “tang pozi” (汤婆子 or 烫婆子) -- an ancient Chinese heating apparatus with a colorful name that translates to “soup granny” or my favorite, “hot granny."
Let me explain.
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I had never even seen a hot granny before last January, when my dad and I were paying a visit to my aunt in Jiaxing.
At 6:30 a.m., we took the first train out of Shanghai South Railway Station. We arrived at Jiaxing and it was freezing cold.
I immediately jumped into the guest room bed.
As I was dozing off, my aunt tucked a hot granny in a terrycloth bag under my feet. It felt wonderful, like a warm cat (albeit a rigid one) had curled up there.
Hers was a copper orb, polished to a shine from years of use. There was a beautiful, dark, mottled pattern from oxidation on its surface.
My aunt explained that this was called a hot granny, and that it had been a part of her wedding dowry.
Why would someone call it a granny?
“I've always thought that it's like when you're a child and you're sleeping next to your granny,” she said. “She's keeping you warm.”
I liked the idea of having my own.
A historic heater
It took me months to actually get my hands on a hot granny, and along the way I became fascinated with its history.
Made of copper, bronze and ceramic, hot grannies are designed to look like golden pumpkins with a small, covered hole at the top.
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They have existed with that name since the Qing Dynasty and there are dozens of ancient poems about the simple joy of a hot granny in bed.
I've always thought that it's like when you're a child and you're sleeping next to your granny. She's keeping you warm
The most famous “hot granny” story is one about a Buddhist monk and the emperor Qian Long.
On one of his tours of China, Qian Long is said to have visited the abbot of a Buddhist temple, who he was told had loose principals.
He asked the monk: “Do you have a wife?”
To which the monk replied: “Yes, I have two.”
The answer startled the indignant Qian Long, until the monk clarified: “In the summer, I embrace the bamboo lady [a type of cooling mat] and the winter carries a hot granny into my arms.”
Qian Long could only laugh.
Hot grannies were popular in China through the Opium Wars, but afterward, the Chinese world adored plastic. However, in the early 21st century, a wave of nostalgia brought back the metal hot granny.
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Metal was precious after the revolution, so the beautiful, handmade copper hot grannies of that age weren't casual gifts. They did become popular dowry gifts that mothers passed onto daughters.
If you're lucky enough to spot a metal one in a Chinese home, you're likely looking at a family heirloom.
The search
The rarity of a metal hot granny made my mission of owning one close to impossible.
I went to a well-known home goods shop on Ruijin Er Lu, where the owner wanted RMB 250 for a hot granny the size of a large persimmon.
This is hopeless, I thought.
Still, I hitched a ride to Qibao that weekend and spent a whole day looking. No luck.
Later, I went down to the antique market near City God Temple. Some vendors were selling used, small hot grannies for more than RMB 300. I was tempted, but it creeped me out to think that they had been at the feet of some unknown -- and probably dead -- person.
Finally, I had something of a breakthrough: Taobao, of course. A Taobao search came back with dozens of results.
I finally bought my hot granny for the budget price of RMB 80. I never found the handmade copper hot granny I wanted -- mine is bronze -- but, I take it everywhere I travel, where I’m sure to have warm feet no matter where I go.
Buying a hot granny (烫婆子) for yourself
Benefit from my seach and try these two vendors.
1. Ornamental hot grannies
These are usually made of copper, and are tiny -- less than six inches wide. The size and shape can resemble Tiny Tom pumpkins or large persimmons. Because they are smaller, they aren't very efficient in bed unless you're warming your hands.
Try this Taobao vendor: item.taobao.com
2. Hot grannies for home use: These are the plainer variety that can be used in bed. The size of a small pizza, these hot grannies are 99 percent leak proof.
Nowadays it's almost impossible to find the beautiful, large copper hot grannies anywhere, unless you are very lucky and willing to pay in the upper hundreds of yuan.
Try this Taobao vendor: item.taobao.com
