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Eat, pray, surf in Putuoshan
Although better known as Shanghai's local beach town, Putuoshan is also a hidden Buddhist escape for local devotees and culture seekers
By Frances Woo, Sean Hanratty 8 September, 2010Putuoshan (普陀山), an island of beaches, hills and temples, is more than Shanghai's long-weekend destination. Home to one of the four holy mountains of Chinese Buddhism, just four hours from the steel and concrete of Shanghai in nearby Zhejiang, it calls to local devotees as well as those simply looking for a cultural reprieve.
An escape from the glass and concrete towers of Shanghai, Putuoshan offers city dwellers fresh air, fresher seafood and a destination for the perfect weekend escape that just about everyone in the city needs once in a while.

Putuoshan, known as the Buddhist Mountain of the East, is a destination for Chinese of all levels of devotion. Visitors, most of whom come with tour groups, burn incense, make offerings, and pray to Guan Yin for good fortune and health.

Puji Temple (普济禅寺), over 1,000 years old (above), is the largest out of the three major temples on the island. The complex is centrally located in a picturesque setting of lakes and bridges.
Close by is a narrow street of restaurants, hotels, and souvenir shops.

For those who came to soak up some sun, the Hundred-Step Beach (above) should be a priority. The sand is fine and the water clean enough to play in, and all sorts of beach equipment -- from floaties to dune buggies -- are available for hire.

If splashing and people watching aren’t your idea of fun, the adjacent Thousand-Step Beach (above) offers a quieter space to relax with a book, a companion, or just the sounds of the waves.

A short walk from the beaches will take you away from the crowds to the Sun-facing Pavilion (chaoyang ge), the place to watch the sunrise as well as explore the caves and grottoes (above) lined with shrines.
Be prepared to meet a monk -- or three -- during your adventures.

The hike from the southern end up to the top of Foding mountain takes just half an hour. At almost 300 meters above sea level, the peak offers send-this-photo-home-worthy views of the hills, sea and surrounding islands.

When dinnertime rolls around, creatures that swim dominate the tables at Putuoshan’s numerous dapaidang-style restaurants, many of which are run out of people’s homes.
Not a fan of seafood? They will also serve pork and vegetables, albeit at prices that make Shanghai dining seem cheap.

The island is also worth exploring after dark. When the last tour group has disappeared, you have the darkened paths all to yourself (along with a couple of frogs and like-minded visitors).
Head back to an illuminated Puji Temple (above) and savor the silence under a starlit sky.

End your night at Jinsha Beach (above), where a makeshift bar offers beer, wine, snacks, and karaoke until 11 p.m. every evening.
Never tried karaoke with sand between your toes? What are you waiting for?
Admission: Entrance to the island (Mount Putuo Scenic Area) is RMB 160. Specific attractions charge from RMB 2-5 each.
Getting around Putuoshan: The island is small enough -- and filled with enough pleasant trails and boardwalks -- that you can walk leisurely from one end to the other within a few hours. Minibuses running the length of the island make stops at the island’s main sites. Make sure you purchase a map of Putuoshan (in Chinese only) at the ferry pier.
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