Hit the streets: Shanghai's non-Hongkou Jewish walking tour

With the upcoming Expo pushing through urban improvements, remnants of Shanghai’s former Hongkou Ghetto are increasingly rare. Across town in the French Concession though, where many Russian and Middle-Eastern Jews lived, a bit more remains of the city’s Jewish past. 

“Even though they’ve been tearing them down at breakneck speed for the past 15 years, there’s still a great number of historic buildings,” says historian Patrick Cranley who led us on a leisurely walk where we caught a glimpse of the shadows of a once-vibrant cultural life. 

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 1: History under your menu

While rumored to be the former home of Du Yuesheng, this estate was built in 1925 by Ray Joseph, a British Jewish trader. It came into state hands in the 1950s and later became a recreation club for cadres. Now a restaurant, the staff nonchalantly allowed us to wander around admiring the original floor plans, woodwork and stained glass.

7 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Lu 东湖路7路, 近淮海中路

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 2: Literary legacy

Down the street is the building where author Rena Krasno (1923-2009) lived with her parents, who came to Shanghai from Russia in the early 1920s. Her father was editor of "Our Life", a tri-lingual Jewish magazine and her uncle Gabriel Rabinowitz designed the Ohel Moshe synagogue (now a museum commemorating Shanghai’s Jewish refugees). For history buffs, Cranley recommends "Strangers Always," Krasno’s chronicle of Jewish life here in the 1940s, as a good starting point.

2 Yanqing Lu 延庆路2号

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 3: Shanghai real estate

Wander through the nongtang at 29 Yanqing Lu as it takes you back to the main street at Huaihai Lu. Across the street you’ll see a boarded up construction site, the headquarters of the People’s Army Police. The lone standing villa inside was the home of the Ezras, one of Shanghai’s most prominent Sephardic Jewish families and owners of several Shanghai properties, including the Astor House Hotel.

1209 Huaihai Lu, across from 1200 Huaihai Lu 淮海中路1209号

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 4: Luxury locale

Heading left, you’ll pass the luxurious Hanray Apartments, built in 1936 and named after owner Ray Joseph and his wife Hannah.

Huaizhong Building, 1160-1164 Huaihai Lu 淮海中路1160-1164号

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 5: Sounds of music

Hang a right at Fenyang Lu and walk inside the Shanghai Conservatory of Music. A plaque outside the colonial-style building identifies it as the former Shanghai Jewish Club, used for recreation and musical performances in the 1930s. You can walk in freely as the rooms are now offices. When we stopped by, we happened upon a visiting Argentinian Jewish tour group joining hands in song. Behind it to your left you’ll find a German-style villa being gutted and rebuilt. In the 1930s and 1940s it was the clubhouse for Betar, a Zionist youth organization.

20 Fenyang Lu, near Huaihai Lu 汾阳路20号, 近淮海路

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 6: Medicine for the soul

Following Fenyang Lu as it crosses Fuxing Lu and veers to the right, you’ll pass the Fudan University Eye, Ear, Nose and Throat Hospital. In the back is the original building of the B’nai Brith Polyclinic, built in 1934, which in the 1940s became known as the Shanghai Jewish Hospital. Rumor has it if you look hard enough you'll see Hebrew writing and Stars of David by the service elevators/entrance.

83 Fenyang Lu 汾阳路83号

Shanghai Jewish walking tour, stop no. 7: Ezra's place

Continue on the road, turning right onto Hengshan Lu/Baoqing Lu, and then right again onto Fuxing Lu. End your walk with a stroll through Xinkang Huayuan, a high-end residential community built in 1934 by the Ezras. You’ll come out at Huaihai Lu, in front of Changshu Lu subway stop.

1360 Fuxing Lu 复兴路1360号