Hangzhou: China's 'happiest city' offers far more than you might think
We'll admit we were a little disappointed that Shanghai once again missed a place in the 10 “happiest cities” in China list, published by Oriental Outlook magazine (an affiliate of China’s state-run Xinhua news agency). But that said, we're very pleased that the number one spot (for the third time) went to Hangzhou, an easy 45-minute train ride away.
We can already hear your collective sigh: "We've been there already!"
But have you really explored Hangzhou, or did you merely check out the city's main attraction, West Lake? Although beautiful, a visit to Hangzhou should include so much more, even if you're only there for the day.
Slightly touristy but worth it
Hefang Jie: Tourists and locals alike converge on this ancient-looking street for the best one-stop shopping and noshing Hangzhou has on offer. You could breeze through picking up gifts for everyone on your list, or you could stay for hours, snacking, browsing, and visiting the nearby Traditional Chinese Medicine Museum.
Wushan Square 吴山广场河坊街
Tea Village: See where your glass of tea comes from. Get out of the city to sip local Dragonwell green tea at the plantations, where meals at local farmers’ homes are also on offer. These are some of Hangzhou’s most beautiful and hilly roads, favorites among the local bike crowd. A Buddhist temple (YunXi Temple 云栖寺) and a Bamboo forest (YunXi Bamboo Path云栖竹径）are some of the sites you can take in after tea.
Meiling Lu, Meijiawu Village. Longjing Lu, Dragon Well Tea Village. 梅岭路, 梅家坞村. 龙井路, 龙井问茶
Take a hike
Bagua Field: Hangzhou’s Song dynasty emperor was so into agriculture that he built an octagon-shaped farm fashioned after the ancient Book of Changes symbol. It later fell into disrepair, but was restored in 2007. Climb (or drive) up Jade Emperor Hill for a bird’s eye view, or visit the field to get first-hand knowledge of traditional farming methods.
Jade Emperor Hill, YuhuangShan Lu. Bagua Field, next to Fuxing Lu 41 玉皇山路 玉皇山. 复兴路41号旁边, 八卦田
Baoshi Shan: Close by and yet often overlooked, Baoshi Hill is worth exploring. A maze of well-paved paths will take you past a Taoist nunnery, the Baoshu pagoda, pilgrimage sites, West Lake vistas, and small inexpensive teahouses tucked away in the hillside.
Enter at Xixialing Lu across the street from West Lake, between Yue Fei’s tomb (Beishan Lu 80) and KFC 宝石山, 从北山路80岳王庙和肯德基中间的栖霞岭路进去
Not your average museums
704: Sick of the scenery? How about a slightly bizarre revolutionary museum? For RMB 12, wander through the underground bunker of Lin Biao, Mao’s right-hand man, who fell victim to a fatal plane crash after attempting to stage a coup. 704, his former temporary residence, has been turned into a museum, located on the grounds of the Zhejiang Hotel.
7:30am-5:30pm, 704, Zhejiang Hotel 278 Santaishan Lu 704行宫, 三台山路278号浙江宾馆, tel +86 0571 8718 0808
Hidden eats
Grandma’s Kitchen: With several branches around town, the Macheng Lu branch is one of the most popular. Here’s you’ll enjoy tasty Hangzhou-style dishes in non-fluorescent lighting. Everything is delicious, but the flavorful Tea Chicken will have you picking the meat from the bones. Reservations aren’t accepted, so get there early or be prepared to wait your turn.
6-1 Macheng Lu 外婆家马塍店, 马塍路6-1号
Sichuan Pickle Restaurant: Don’t like spice? Don’t come here. This hole in the wall Chongqing restaurant in a slightly sketchy back alley has a devoted following among pepper-lovers. Afterwards, walk up the alley for another entry point into Baoshi Hill.
51 Shuguang Lu, Bai Sha Quan 川味泡菜馆曙光路 51泉51号
Jiangnanyi: It’s a youth hostel, but the dishes are first rate. Order up a diverse variety of regional dishes from around China and relax on the front porch at this remote restaurant in the South of the city that gets packed with Hangzhou locals out for a drive. The Spicy Sichuan Chicken is one reason that reservations are absolutely necessary. Jiangnanyi Youth Hostel.
32 Manjuelong Lu at Hupao Lu
杭州江南驿国际青年旅社满觉陇路32号虎跑路口, tel +86 0571 8715 3273
Green Tea Restaurant: Very popular, very tasty, the dishes are a hodgepodge of regional specialties. Rent a bike or taxi to remote Lingyin Lu, where there are no menus and your meal comes with a view of the surrounding tea fields. Get there early to avoid the lines. Near the Silk Museum.
Longjing Lu 83, Zhejiang Hotel back entrance 龙井路83号浙江宾馆后门, tel +86 0571 8788 8022
read most
commented