Art's in the right place: 696 Weihai Lu

Before the emergence of 696 Weihai Lu, art appreciation in Shanghai meant adhering to a strict turtleneck dress code and pondering the meaning of art on one continuous loop.

But 696 Weihai Lu turns the Shanghai art trend on its up-turned nose.

It’s like it was before 'Chinese contemporary art' became a lucrative, high-pressure international phenomenon

— Lisa Movius,

Like a little brother with something to prove, Shanghai’s galleries have been madly swinging away under fine art’s stiff arm -- to the glee of the turtleneck set. But with the popular annual open house of the 696 Weihai Lu collective (aptly located at 696 Weihai Lu near Maoming Bei Lu), the concept of the scruffy, scrappy and eclectic artistic co-op was reintroduced to the masses.

"It reminds me of what the art scene in Shanghai was like from 1999-2002 or so," says Lisa Movius, local art authority and journalist. "It’s like it was before 'Chinese contemporary art' became a lucrative, high-pressure international phenomenon."

Having fended off recent attempts on its life by commercial developers, the determined, yet laid-back mixed art community at 696 Weihai Lu achieves an organic fusion that remains accessible. So those of us loathe to don a beret can finally explore the local art scene snoot-free.

Venture into the art of darkness 696 Weihai Lu’s galleries are open Tuesdays through Sundays from 10am-6pm, but don’t be surprised to arrive to padlocked doors; artists aren't generally known for keeping regular hours. Aside from the annual open house, your best bet is to poke around 696 Weihai Lu’s dark concrete corridors on your own -- no one will mind.

As you make your way through halls that once served the opium trade, there are some studio highlights that should mark your path:

• The message on his door makes it clear that unexpected visitors aren’t welcome, but Maleonn might still let you in. His works rely on a wide variety of secondhand market treasures, many of which are scattered around his studio: children’s rocking horses, tricycles, masks, post office box dioramas and musical instruments. If you're an art fan, this is your toy box -- literally. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 301 
• Zhang Ping’s studio could be the choicest piece of real estate at 696. Originally from Xinjiang, she was one of 696’s early arrivals four years ago and paints subjects from her life. Aside from her spacious studio, she has also taken over a garden rooftop space lit at night by a nearby skyscraper. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 1, Rm. 201
• A workshop cum gallery, Hao Art Space rotates exhibitions fairly regularly, so stop by to see what piece of the Shanghai art scene is currently on display, or which local artist is setting up shop there for the time being. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 308

• StageBACK: German gallery owner and artist Susanne Junker hosts events and art shows by Chinese and foreign artists with a more international flavor. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 310. Open Thu.-Fri. 2-6pm or by appointment at +86 135 0171 7590
• White Factory: Its hours are unpredictable, but it occasionally opens its doors for photography exhibitions. Look out for fliers annoucing upcoming shows while you're poking around. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 102
• Around Space: Simple walls and high ceilings with original wooden moldings keep the focus off the venue and on the contemporary Chinese art it hosts. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 108

• Clamber up to the ramshackle roof and you’ll be rewarded with an uncommon view over some of Shanghai’s traditional Nongtang lanes. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 1, stairs at Rm. 106
• Why not drop in on a class at Chinese Cooking Workshop or just steal a glimpse of the bustling kitchen filled with students practicing their skills. 696 Weihai Lu, Bldg 11, Rm. 307, www.chinesecookingworkshop.com