Glamour Bar and M on the Bund have long been Shanghai’s literary hold-out, offering everything from the occasional author talk to the annual Shanghai International Literary Festival. They’re ramping up the intellectual action in July, offering Cosmopolitan Conversations moderated by blogger, author (his latest book is “China in the 21st Century: What Everyone Needs to Know”) and University of Irvine professor Jeffrey Wasserstrom. 

The program’s guest speakers include New Yorker's Evan Osnos, historian Tess Johnston, author Zhang Lijia, publisher Graham Earnshaw, former Shanghai New York Times correspondent Howard French and writer, blogger and raconteur Paul French (see event details at the bottom of the page). 

We stopped Tess Johnston after her kick off event with Paul French event on July 4 -- “Red, White & Blue in Old Shanghai” -- which was an ode to the American presence in the Shanghai International Concessions. What better way to celebrate the Fourth of July? 

Johnston is uniquely qualified to speak on the topic of Old Shanghai. She first came here in 1981 with the American Consulate General, and has subsequently become one of the best-known English-language authors, researchers and historians on the subject of “Old Shanghai.” She has published 25 books, 15 of them on Western architecture and the expat experience in old China. 

CNNGo: You have described yourself as a "new old China hand." What do you mean?

Although sometimes used loosely today, traditionally "old China hands" are those who lived in Shanghai prior to 1949, or who were born out here, in other words, old timers. I only came in 1981, so I hardly qualify -- so I modify my title to suit me!

CNNGo: If you had to pinpoint the moment you began to call Shanghai home, when would it be? 

When I retired from the American Consulate in 1996, and realized I did not want to leave Shanghai, even for "home" (where I had not lived for over 40 years). 

CNNGo: What's one thing in this city you could do without seeing again?

The over-supply of cars. I read today in the Shanghai Daily that Shanghai is now short 700,000 parking spaces, and next year the city will add 500,000 more cars! That will make well over one million cars with no place to park. What can they be thinking?

CNNGo: You're one of the city's best known historians, so what are three buildings here that you think capture Shanghai's history well?

The Gascogne (1202 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Donghu Lu 淮海中路1202号, 近东湖路), where I lived for 12 happy years (its stunning art deco interior now totally lost in a recent "renovation"); the Peace Hotel (Nanjing Dong Lu and the Bund 南京东路, 近外滩), now trying to recapture the charm of its Cathay Hotel days; and the few shikumen that still remain. They are the essence of the city, unique to it alone, and when they are all gone -- which looks to be not too far off -- the city will have lost its heart and soul. 

You've written and co-written about 25 books about Shanghai and China. Which are your favorites? 

Probably “Frenchtown Shanghai.” I have always lived in the French Concession, would not dream of living anywhere else, and I think I helped make that book more romantic -- or more schmaltzy -- and more diverse in content. I even managed to sneak into it some photos of my beloved dog Lamb Chop!

What do you think is one of the oddest facts about Shanghai history people don't know?

Listeners always seem surprised when I tell them (in my lectures) that at the height of the Western presence here, they never numbered more than three to four percent of the total population -- and that the French Concession didn't have many French in it! No more than about 1,200, with a White Russian population more than 10 times that.

Oh yes, also that Dame Margot Fonteyn, as young Peggy Hookham, first studied ballet here in Shanghai under an ex-Bolshoi ballerina.

July's other Cosmopolitan Conversations at the Glamour Bar (all events are RMB 65 and include a drink):

“Reporting Shanghai with guest speaker Howard French,” Sunday, July 11, 4pm

“Seeking Truth From Facts with guest speakers Zhang Lijia and Graham Earnshaw,” Sunday, July 18, 4pm

“Broadway in Shanghai: David Henry Hwang and Leigh Silverman,” Saturday, July 24, 4pm

“Writing China, Blogging China with guest speaker Evan Osnos,” Sunday, July 25, 2:30pm