Morton's Steakhouse Shanghai: Most important in the world?
It wasn’t too many years ago when the classiest Shanghai steak in town was undeniably the Four Seasons’ Steakhouse. That was back when USDA beef was still a legal import.
How times, and laws, have changed. Although U.S. (and Japanese) beef is now persona non grata in mainland China, restaurants serving steak are beginning to spread across Shanghai, like a small, but steadily migrating, herd of steer.
Now, there’s a new, ambitious steak purveyor in town: Morton’s of Chicago, one of the original old boy steak brands founded in 1978, in Chicago, of course.
A new Shanghai steak: Morton’s of Shanghai
After putting down stakes in several other Asian cities, Morton’s has turned its eye to the mainland. Do they have any worries that Shanghai is already over-saturated with steak? Not one. “There is so much room in the Shanghai steak market!” exclaims David Martin, regional director of operations. “Not many other venues are giving people this authentic, undiluted steakhouse experience.”
Shanghai’s Morton’s, correctly called Morton's of Chicago: The Steakhouse in Shanghai and which will be opening toward the end of October, is the 77th branch of the brand. However, despite the confidence Martin has about Shanghai’s potential, the road here has not been easy. Martin has been looking for the right location for Shanghai’s Morton’s for nearly four years.
Martin explains that he looked at many sites in Puxi, but “the Shanghai real estate prices are astronomical in Puxi. I was blown away at how expensive the rents were.” He eventually found the ideal spot for the first Shanghai branch in the new IFC Mall in Lujiazui. Morton’s fourth-floor terrace looks directly out on the glass Shanghai Apple store column and beyond to the city’s skyline icon, the Pearl Tower.
“This is a bigger space than we were originally planning to have, but we just loved this location,” explains Martin. With so much space, Morton’s has installed an unprecedented number of private rooms, catering to local Chinese guests who put a premium on the service.
There is so much room in the Shanghai steak market!— David Martin, regional director of operations, Morton's
Super staff
In order to guarantee that guests are receiving the “undiluted” Shanghai steak-eating experience, Morton’s has brought in a high caliber of staff, often a challenge in China. Martin says they interviewed a whopping 1,200 potential employees, before selecting 75 people -- 25 of whom are chefs.
“Everyday someone is raising the level, and if you don’t keep up, you’re toast,” says Martin, explaining that they hired staff based not just on their experience but on their attitude. “Our CEO started out as a prep chef and worked his way up over 16 years -- that really symbolizes the commitment of many of the staff at Morton’s.” Martin himself has been with the brand for 11 years in Asia.
The Shanghai branch staff include Corwin Leong as executive chef -- previously the chef at the Singapore branch of Morton’s, which is the brand’s highest profit branch in the world; and assistant general manager Diego Zhang, previously at Laris and the Park Hyatt, and an award-winning sommelier.
In terms of menu and style, Morton’s isn’t going to be changing much for the Shanghai market, as many of its competitors have -- the menu will include the same steaks, creamed spinach and mashed potatoes that grace the other 76 branches around the world. “In Hong Kong, this year we won a Michelin star,” says Martin. “Michelin looks for consistency in service and style -- and consistency is what Morton’s does best.”
Now, Morton’s will be shooting for the stars here in Shanghai -- although Martin is keeping a realistic attitude for the launch. “We may be dead as a doornail for the first six months,” he concedes, “and that’s okay, the market needs to get to know us. We’re not looking to make a quick buck from Shanghai steak. We’re here for the long term. Our CFO says this, our Shanghai restaurant may be the most important Morton’s branch in the world.”
