Call them what you like -- crayfish, crawfish, crawdads, "little dragon shrimp" or "little lobsters" -- but everyone knows that the Shanghaining love their xiaolongxia. 

The popularity of this culinary delicacy -- even in the face of reports that they’re often bred in polluted waters -- is undeniable among the locals. Just check out the long queue in front of FOMO, the most popular xiaolongxia chain in Shanghai.

“Crayfish actually can only grow in clear, clean water, so this saying about polluted environment is pure nonsense. Our Zhongshan park outlet alone receives about 500 customers a night,” says Zhang Biyun, marketing manager at FOMO.

You can find xiaolongxia here and there around the town throughout the year, but the best time to fill your plate with these crawlies is from June until September when the crawfish become fat and abundant.

The flavors and preparation vary from restaurant to restaurant, but the most popular xiaolongxia flavor is mala (麻辣) -- a spicy combo of Chinese pepper and chilies.

Craving for some little crustaceans? Here is a list of the restaurants you should definitely try.

FOMO (复茂)

The place: Now with 16 outlets around town, FOMO has become one of Shanghai's most well-known crayfish chains since it opened its first store here in 2002. The FOMO location on Huaihai Lu is one of the most popular -- and accessible -- of the chain's venues. The interior is clean and spacious but always packed with crayfish diners. Be prepared to wait in line, especially during high season.

The dish: Shouzhua xiaolongxia (手抓小龙虾). There are almost 20 different flavors of crayfish served here, but shouzhua xiaolongxia is the one to try, especially your first time. It’s the best deal, reasonably priced and not too spicy. It's also good for xiaolongxia newbies: the heads and the intestines are removed for the customers before it’s served.

The price: RMB 56 per kilo
Multiple locations, 172 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Pu’an Lu 淮海中路172号, 近普安路, +86 21 6385 5152, www.xiaxie.com

Duan’s Crayfish (段氏龙虾)

The place: This is probably the only crayfish restaurant in Shanghai that has an open kitchen. Live crayfish are on display for the customers to pick their own. Your selections are then weighed in front of you to assure you that you're getting exactly what you pay for. The venue's interior decor doesn't set it apart from other small Chinese restaurants, but it does look cleaner than most.

The dish: 13 xiang xiaolongxia (13香小龙虾, crayfish served with 13 different spices). 13 xiang is one of the most popular ways to prepare crayfish; the 13 spices make the dish smell mouth-wateringly delicious with a sweet aftertaste. Helpful tip: dip the crayfish meat in the sauce provided since it probably didn’t completely absorbed all 13 flavors as well as it could have when it was cooked.

The Price: RMB 53.6 per kilo
Rm 106, 84 Anyuan Lu, near Changhua Lu 安远路84号106室, 近昌化路, +86 138 1783 3747 or +86 138 1610 2237

Xiangbadao (香吧岛)

The place: This is a well-known crayfish restaurant crammed between all the other crayfish restaurants on Shouning Lu (editor's note: click for other Shouning Lu recommendations), the famous food street, a few blocks south of People's Square in downtown Shanghai. The owner takes advantage of every inch in this 20 square meter place, making it two stories and squeezing in 20 tables -- although it doesn't do much for the venue's hygiene. Great food, but opt to take away.

The dish: Zhongla-flavored xiaolongxia (中辣小龙虾, medium-spiced crayfish). If you're into spicy food, the medium spice is probably the best choice. You  probably won’t feel the heat at the first bite, but give it five minutes and the medium spice will make just about anyone sweat like it's August.

The price: RMB 60 per kilo
51 Shouning Lu, near Xizang Nan Lu 寿宁路51号, 西藏南路, ＋86 21 6311 4195

QQ Crayfish & Grilled Fish (QQ龙虾烤鱼坊)

The place: This is probably the cutest crayfish restaurant we’ve ever been to. The interior is clean and very simple except for the wall on the second floor which is hand-painted with English letters and Chinese characters, along with hundreds of sticky notes from the customers saying great things about the crayfish served here.

The dish：Xiangla xiaolongxia (香辣小龙虾, fragrant and spicy-flavored crayfish). The crawfish served here are often bigger than those you get at FOMO, but the same price. The meat is fresh and plump and the dish's level of spice can be adjusted according to your taste.

The price: RMB 56 per kilo
180 Hengye Lu, near Tongxin Lu 恒业路180号, 近同心路, no telephone

Xia Man Tang (虾满堂)

The place: Located close to Xijiao Bailian Shopping Mall, this restaurant has four outlets in Shanghai, and has been popular among local diners since it opened in 2007. The decor is quite trendy with dim lights, comfortable seats and a clean environment. The menu features over 20 different flavors, giving crawfish lovers many reasons to come back for more.

The dish: Beer-flavored xialongxia (啤酒龙虾). This is a new flavor that we never tried before, but with so much garlic, ginger, beer and spices in it, we were wowed by the complex taste and fragrance. The meat completely absorbs the delicious sauce and has a wonderfully sweet aftertaste.

The price: RMB 68 per kilo
Multiple locations, 529 Jianhe Lu, near Ganxi Lu 剑河路529号, 近甘系路, ＋86 21 5217 1930, www.xiamantang.com (Chinese Only)

If you’d like to try xiaolongxia, but don't know where to start, follow the steps below, you’ll soon be a xiaolongxia master.
Step 1: Hold the back of the crawfish with one hand, and use another to twist the head so it separates from the body. You can suck on the head to savor the spice and the crawfish roe. Although some people say that the roe is just the crawfish’s poo, don't believe them. It tastes good, so go for it.
Step 2: Peel off the crust, use teeth if needed.
Step 3: Get rid of the intestine. This is the crucial step of being a guru from an amateur eater. After you peel off the crust, don’t start eating yet, gently use your thumb to remove the top layer of the flesh and you will discover a line down the body, this is the intestine (like in a shimp). You don't want to eat this so gently pull it out.
Step 4: Enjoy!