Top 3 Shanghai dining trends of 2010

Like the fashion off our backs, Shanghai dining trends can come and go as quickly as they appear on our UnionPay charges, while others refuse to die. 

But 2010 has been a year like no other. Rising from the remnants of an economic recession, the city’s hearts, minds and stomachs are in a state of strong recovery.

As a result, 2010 has seen some solid innovations that, if we’re lucky, will be here for the long haul.

1. Back to basics

Let’s face it, the past two years have been tough all over, and the F&B scene was no exception. Hardly limited to Shanghai, the trend of heightened consumer awareness and demand for simple value has taken over menus and dinner tables the world over. 

Marcus Ford of The Wine Way has been watching Shanghai dining trends for over a decade.

Fine dining fluff and gimmicks -- even in status-conscious Shanghai -- are out and simple is back.

Marcus Ford, director at The Wine Way, has seen a fair share of trends during his 10 years as former manager of M on the Bund observing a clear 'back to basics' approach that after many years has returned to the city.

“Restaurateurs are concentrating on good food again without worrying too much about all the bells and whistles and big ideas,” says Ford.

“The best and busiest Western restaurants in Shanghai seem to be doing similar things; look at the menus at places like M on the Bund, the Park Hyatt, Mr Willis, Sir Elly’s at the Peninsula, Mr and Mrs Bund and they are all focusing on good ingredients and fairly classic food, cooked well.”

And the opposite side of the Huangpu is no different.

At the Pudong Shangri-La, haute cuisine-meets-simplicity is also in evidence, and one taste of the cuisine at Jade on 36 by Chef Fabrice Giraud, who has worked on a number of Michelin-rated restaurants, will prove the point.

Shangri-La’s director of F&B, chef Tim Stanhope, notes that, “Fabrice’s works aim for true simplicity of flavors -- simple food that looks fantastic, has great color and most importantly, tastes great.”

The focus on quality and a real pride in the product you’re delivering is vital. And also the quality of what’s available in Shanghai now from wines to spirits and meats and vegetables is much different from just a few years ago.— Nat Alexander, co-owner of Fulton Place

2. A kitchen of one’s own

It seems everyone wants to be their own boss these days and Shanghai foodies are extra thankful as owner-operated venues from local chefs have come into their own in the past year.

“Definitely one of the biggest things that's shifted in the Shanghai dining scene is that smaller name chefs are now branching off to open their own spots -- eateries where they're cooking all the time and they can mold the restaurant in their own image,” says Geoff Ng, editor at City Weekend.

“Craig Willis and Willy did it successfully last year, and now Brad Turley's opened Goga and Austin Hu's opened Madison to generally very good reviews.” 

Nat Alexander, owner of the recently opened Fulton Place, agrees. 

“You’re seeing more and more people coming on the scene like Austin Hu’s Madison and, of course, there are those that have been around for a while like Franck -- one of the city's first owner-operated places. All of them though focus on delivering a high quality product and sourcing great ingredients. Before a few years ago, I am not sure there were many others doing that."

3. Going for the 'Big O' 

Dining with a conscience? It’s not so overrated.

From family-run bistros to five-star dining, people are no longer going green for show; they want to feel better about their food choices.

City Weekend's Geoff Ng has had a front row seat for Shanghai's 2010 dining trends.

‘Just’ organic is no longer good enough as overuse and abuse has sullied its once good name.

More and more Shanghai residents are demanding sustainability in their diets with locally grown produce on everyone’s lips.

“People are definitely showing more interest in where their food comes from,” says Steve Liang, owner of FIELDS, one local supplier of locally grown and organic food.

“They’re asking a lot of questions about the food’s origins and what makes it organic. I’ve also noticed people showing a huge interest in farming and trying to grow produce themselves.”

Many of the big-name restaurants in town are jumping on the bandwagon, including Downstairs by David Laris and Madison by Austin Hu. 

“The focus on quality and a real pride in the product you’re delivering is vital. And also the quality of what’s available in Shanghai now from wines to spirits and meats and vegetables is much different from just a few years ago,” agrees Alexander.

Restaurateurs are concentrating on good food again without worrying too much about all the ‘bells and whistles.'— Marcus Ford, The Wine Way

And the trend isn’t limited to just food. Wine is also getting in the game, explains Jean-Marc Nolant, Master Sommelier at the Shanghai Park Hyatt. 

“Luckily, more and more people and businesses are starting to seek for organic and bio-dynamic labels when creating their wine list,” says Nolant. 

“I’m very much into these wines not because I’m a tree hugger, but simply because the wines taste better. This method of viticulture requires humility and painstaking efforts in the vineyard and forces vintners to solely work on rather limited surfaces. In other words, the true passionate farmers who work in bio-dynamy are wearing jeans and muddy boots and produce limited quantities of wine.”

You know a Shanghai dining trend has made the big time when it hits the Bund and that is exactly what organic wine has done with the last 2010 opening of House of Wine (HOW) at Three on the Bund.