A Spanish legend comes to Asia: Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui

It's big news when a Spanish three-star Michelin chef’s name pops up on the Shanghai dining scene.

And when that name is Basque chef Martin Berasategui, everyone gets talking.

The reason? His Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui in Shanghai has its grand opening on September 28, and it's Berasategui's first restaurant outside of Spain. 

Head chefs are Yago Márquez and Maxime Fanton -- you didn’t really think that Berasategui himself would be running the kitchen here, did you? However, Berasategui will be in town from September 25-30 for the opening.

Dining with history

Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui's home is a three-story mansion on Hengshan Lu. Built in 1921, the building once belonged to music label EMI. In its day it was the biggest recording studio in the East.

Archaic-looking gramophones displayed in the restaurant's cigar room and lounges are throwbacks to those days. Keeping with the musical theme, there are plans to bring in a live jazz band every night.

On the menu

The restaurant will offer both traditional Spanish cuisine and three-Michelin starred dishes (RMB 580 for traditional set menu, RMB 780 for creative). 

Tapas are restricted to the bar menu. Márquez explains why: “There is more to Spain than tapas and sangria, and we want to show that. Martin’s kitchen in Spain is 350 square meters and he has fifty chefs in the kitchen. We can’t replicate all the Michelin dishes at Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui in Shanghai, so we will adapt.”

Adapting is a skill that most European chefs need in Shanghai. Not only because of smaller-sized kitchens and fewer staff members (there are only fifteen staff members in this kitchen), but also due to the availability and quality of local produce.

“We want to use as many local products here as possible,” says Fanton. “It will take some time to find the best local meat, but we are sure that we will be able to use them.”

Even the seafood? (Shanghai is unfortunately renowned for its low-quality seafood.)

“Even seafood!” he says. “This is what we learn in Europe. If you are working in Basque, you use what is grown in the region. You don’t fly produce in from somewhere else. Except for the jamón Ibérico.”

The Spanish are serious about their beloved black pig. And secretive too. Licensing restrictions forbid some suppliers from bringing in the authentic stuff.

So how does it get to Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui?

“We don’t know how it gets here. It just does. It’s top secret!” Fanton says with a smile.

Maybe pigs do fly.

getting there

Restaurant Martin by Martin Berasategui
811 Hengshan Lu, near Zhaojiabang Lu, in Xujiahui Park 衡山路811号, 近肇嘉浜路, 徐家汇公园内
Hours: Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, Dinner 6:30-10:30pm, Bar 2pm-2am
tel +86 21 6431 6639, +86 21 6431 9811
www.restaurantmartin.com.cn