Haiku by Hatsune: California-style Japanese fare

Before we got Mexican and after we got Spanish tapas, another glaring hole in Shanghai’s dining scene existed: California-style sushi. All-you-can-eat Japanese deals have been pulling in crowds since the early '90s, but for those fond of liberal additions of avocado and tobiko to their raw fish, there were few choices -- before Haiku by Hatsune.

When Haiku by Hatsune, a branch of Beijing’s popular Hatsune, rolled into Shanghai, offering dozens of wacky and creative rolls, the hungry masses surged in like schools of migrating California-bound salmon. While the Moto-Roll-Ah, a montage of spicy tuna, snow crab, maguro, and avocado remains the top order of the house, the 911 roll, with its near-toxic portions of wasabi, is the roll of choice for spice-eating show-offs.

The comfortable dining area, with blonde wood tables and muted upholstery spread over two levels, is consistently packed at night -- so give in and make a reservation before heading to Haiku by Hatsune.