Finding the best Hunan Double Pepper Fish Head

Hunan fish head shares the birthplace of Mao Zedong, but owes its prominence to Qing Dynasty mathematician Huang Zongxian. Huang was passing through a village near Xiangtan when he was caught in a rainstorm and took shelter in a rustic kitchen.

He observed his hostess cleaning spotted river carp. She deftly incised the skin, then salted and sauteed the fish. Suddenly she threw in two handfuls of chopped chilies -- one green, one red -- and gave the fish a brief steam bath. Huang tasted the dish and was smitten.

With a mathematician’s eye for detail and proportion, the scholar later had his cook reproduce the recipe and thus the Hunan fish head with chopped chilies was born. 

3/F, 580 Tianyaoqiao Lu 天钥桥路580号星游城3楼, +86 21 6161 9787.

Place: Hunan dining is generally known as a greasy, salty, boisterous affair, but this popular chain is distinguished by its smooth and suave environment. This bastion of classic Hunan is presentable, efficient and delicious.

Price: RMB 58.

Features: High quality and well-balanced dishes.

Dish: Unfurled under a layer of green and red peppers, the spotted silver carp has springy alabaster flesh -- fresh and clean tasting. The flavors from the fish head take a few seconds to process, gradually modulating as the plate's two dominant flavor regions blend together. Crowning the meal are hand-pulled, al dente noodles which are added to sop up the peppered sauces. 

Comments:

Marc, engineer, USA: “It’s not only the head. It’s the front half.”

Zeno, engineer, Athens: “The front 40 percent.”

Momo, singer, Japan “Brilliant food.”

Verdict: This fish head hits all the notes; great for beginners.

108 Yongjia Lu 永嘉路108号, +86 21 6437 7598.

Place: Rooted in a rustic tradition, Xiang Quan delivers hearty, confident and spicy Hunan dishes. Well-worn interior, low-key atmosphere and sweet unobtrusive staff evoke a provincial diner with a cosmopolitan palate.

Price: RMB 48.

Features: Mono-pepper intensity.

Dish: Shocking: Xiang Quan’s fish head has only red peppers. The horror! But these red chilies are so potent and complex, they sing. The buttery fish flesh is impeccably boneless, salty and drenched in beany pickled juice, intensified with a unique ginger heat and savory garlic essence.

Comments:

Graham, programmer, USA: “Yum! I’m glad sodium paranoia hasn’t gotten here yet.”

Parker, engineer, Canada: “Supreme.”

Lucia, yoga instructor, Russia: “It’s lovely here. The food is wonderful.”

Verdict: This is a grand entree, primary-colored but not simple.

520 Dongjiangwan Lu 东江湾路520号, +86 21 5696 1183

Place: There’s always a queue in front of this ugly duplex trapped beneath a freeway on a noisy block beside Hongkou stadium. Garrulous young couples jabber away at apple-green tables. It’s the best restaurant of any kind in the area -- and it’s the most interesting Hunan kitchen in Shanghai.

Price: RMB 48.

Features: Cumin and black bean stunner.

Dish: Guo Yuan’s fish head has a hidden layer of fragrant cumin seeds under the coating of chopped bi-colored chilies. This gives it a Xinjiang-esque smoky tang that grows even more exciting as the peppers mix. The fish flesh is delicate but laced with teeny bones -- be careful, pore over every chew. The ‘yin-yang’ pairing of the in-house pickles is wild and perfect. The fish is sublime; you’ll devour it without the noodles. And you must anyway because Guo Yuan doesn’t serve noodles.

Comments:

Heather Myers, public relations, USA: “Oh, delicious. China, China, China...”

Tan Zhaoyun, teacher, Shanghai: “Oh, I love it. Very unusual!”

Fan Zhengwei, university student, Hubei: “I think it’s the best I’ve tried.”

Verdict: We think this recipe might be the best in the city.