Traditional Chinese tea ceremony appeals to younger generation

Amid shelves crammed with tea varieties and tea ceremony accessories, Wan Ling carefully rinses tea leaves with boiling water. She makes tea at her Wan Ling Teahouse as has been done for centuries, with the care and ritual of an ancient art form. 

It can be hard to imagine how traditional Chinese tea ceremonies fit into modern life. Would those who can barely go two minutes without sparking up their BlackBerry or mainlining an iPhone app be patient enough to sit and watch while paraphernalia is arranged, tea brewed, then stirred, then poured, then passed to them? "Just gimme my tea already!" one can hear them say. "I'm thirsty!"

Despite this, there are a few places in the city though where Chinese tea traditions still exist. Those that have prospered are attracting a younger clientelle. 

Sitting in Wan Ling Teahouse, a tea haven in business for more than a decade, owner Wan Ling’s job is to teach students how to appreciate the finer properties of the ancient drink. She offers classes in which people can learn the different types and qualities of tea, along with proper brewing techniques for each. 

Chinese tea for the generations

When asked if she thinks younger generations are still interested in tea ceremony, Ling hesitates. “As China began to become more Westernized, there was a definite drop in interest by the young people. They were more excited about Coca-Cola and coffee," she says.

And now?

“There seems to be a resurgence,” she says. “I’ve noticed that more and more of my students are below the age of 30. It didn’t used to be like that. I think they have a desire to return to their roots.”

While some families in surrounding provinces still treat tea time as an event, residents of Shanghai are more likely to stop by Starbucks, high teas or a “modernized tea house” that serves not only tea, but have coffee, snacks and free Wi-Fi.

As China began to become more Westernized, there was a definite drop in interest by the young people. They were more excited about Coca-Cola and coffee.— Wan Ling, owner of Wan Ling Teahouse in Shanghai

Modern technology takes its toll

“People in Shanghai don’t know how to relax,” laughs Ling. “Everyone’s too busy working and making money.” Indeed, most of her clients come to her straight from their jobs during the work week.

While technology has increased the amount of tea that can be grown and exported -- tea output approached a record 1,257,384 tons in 2008 -- Ling believes that the chemicals used to enhance harvests have a negative impact on the quality and taste of the tea.

She says knowledgeable tea drinkers can sometimes taste the chemicals.

“Younger, inexperienced drinkers just think that’s the way it’s supposed to taste," she says. "But the tea just doesn’t have that soothing effect when it’s got too many chemicals in it.”

While Ling clearly takes pride in her traditional method of tea making, it’s hard to miss the electric stove she uses to boil the water, and the sterilizer plugged into the wall that she uses to clean teacups and utensils. Perhaps there is a place for technology and modern conveniences in ancient tea ceremonies, after all.