Bringing the mullet into fashion. Red mullet, that is

Widely favored in the Mediterranean, the red mullet fish needs and deserves a bigger spotlight here in Shanghai. Two restaurants currently featuring this fish on the menu are Spanish tapas restaurant El Willy and the renowned M on the Bund.

El Willy Chef Guillermo Trullás Moreno, better known as Willy, was excited when he came across the breed of fish here. “Besides kingfish and red mullet, the fresh local seafood in Shanghai is non-existent.”

Red mullet is a little stronger [with] a more unique flavor than other species such as snapper, and the way the flesh flakes is far more delicate.

— Hamish Pollitt, executive chef at M on the Bund

Of course he is right, Shanghai is not known for its high quality of seafood. And it is a surprise to see this fish on menus here and equally surprising to discover that it is sourced locally from Pacific waters.

The red mullet served in both restaurants is suited for the fall: M on the Bund is featuring it in a bouillabaisse while El Willy is serving it in a traditional Catalan style with lobster broth, potatoes and matsutake mushrooms.

M on the Bund’s executive chef, Hamish Pollitt says the red mullet is “a little stronger [with] a more unique flavor than other species such as snapper, and the way the flesh flakes is far more delicate. The flesh also seems to have a higher oil content that helps to prevent it from drying out.”

His red mullet bouillabaisse is a mélange of seafood in a bowl, with mussels, clams, scampi, squid and baby octopus. It is complete with an indulgent serving of rouille, croutons and gruyere cheese.

While some may prefer the bigger-sized fish, both Willy and Pollitt choose the smaller sizes for their concentrated flavor, delicate flesh and sweeter taste.

“Extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice after it is seared,” is how Willy would prepare the fish at home. He adds, “With my increasing waistline, I’d have it just with a side of salad or seared vegetables.”

Unknown to most, red mullet liver is a delicacy. Pollitt is one of the few who enjoys the occasional fish offal.

“I love to leave the liver inside the cavity when I do this on the barbecue at home, for an extra layer of flavor. There is so much to fish offal and not enough people know about it!”

Anyone else game enough to partake in some red mullet liver on toast?

Take advantage of the season's catch and whip-up your own Red Mullet in Catalan Suquet.

Ingredients

• 1 Red mullet fillet (85g)
• 250g lobster stock reduced to 50g
• 65g potato, peeled and sliced
• 25g white onion, peeled and sliced
• 5g tarragon, chopped
• 4g black olive pitted
• 12g fresh matsutake (pine mushrooms)
• 10g extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Method

• Pour the lobster stock in a saucepan. Let it reduce down to one-fifth, then season with salt, pepper and a pinch of sugar (to balance the acidity).
• Deep fry the onion and potato olive oil until golden and crispy.
• Clean and roughly cut the fresh matsutake. Sauté in extra virgin olive oil till golden brown.
• Put the crispy potato and onion in the reduced lobster broth; add the tarragon, matsutake and black olive. Let it boil for two minutes.
• Meanwhile sprinkle some salt pepper on the mullet then sear it with a bit of olive oil till the fish is cooked medium-well.
• Pour the lobster broth in a bowl then the red mullet on top, and finish with a bit of tarragon on the top.

getting there

El Willy
20 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Lu 东湖路20号, 近淮海路
Lunch 11am-2:30pm, Dinner 6-10:30pm
+86 21 5404 5757
www.elwilly.com.cn

M on the Bund
7/F, No. 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Guangdong Lu, 中山东一路外滩5号7楼, 近广东路
Lunch 11:30am-2:30pm, Dinner 6-10:30pm
+86 21 6350 9988
www.m-onthebund.com