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The art of Zen and doing nothing in Xitang

This tiny water town near Shanghai is a tranquil slice of heaven. Sit back, relax and take it all in
 
Xitang The best seats in Xitang are along the water where intrepid teahouses have set up wicker lounge chairs facing the canal.

Xitang -- a place where you can simply get away. Utterly and completely.

This quiet water town (one of the oldest townships in China) offers Shanghailanders a simple lesson in economics: the low costs of getting to Xitang means less pressure to make the most out of your trip. And to be honest, there is no need to do much.

All you need is 90 minutes (of travel time) and RMB 30 for a bus ticket from the Shanghai South Train Station.

Be lazy

For those who go to Xitang on the weekend, you’ll have to pay either RMB 50 (to get into the town) or RMB 100 (for the town plus attractions). You’ll be tempted to go for the RMB 100, after all you’re already here, and shouldn’t you at least try to see what the ceramic tile museum is about? Be naughty. Just by being in this old town, you’ve fulfilled your requisite dose of culture. So don’t spend that extra RMB 50. It’s been a long week. You deserve it. (If you go on a weekday, there’s no admission fee to get into Xitang.)

So, what else is there to do in Xitang if not the ceramic tile museum? Well, a lot of sitting and a bit of wandering. There’s plenty of seating in Xitang along shady stone walkways or inside rustic corner café-cum-bars. The best seats though are along the water where intrepid teahouses have set up wicker lounge chairs facing the canal. Book in one hand, a cup of fragrant jasmine tea in the other -- it’s the perfect way to soak in a blissful afternoon of sunshine and relaxation.

Equally idyllic is dusk in Xitang. Once the sun sets, strings of red lanterns slowly turn on, infusing the velvety night with their glow.
— Dan Ouyang

Enjoy gluttony

Nothing tops a lazy weekend retreat like eating yourself silly. Xitang’s streets are lined with rows of smiling vendors peddling all sorts of edible sins. Globs of molasses glistening on sticks and multicolored blocks of flowery tasting cake-like candy cut into gum-shaped slices, soft tofu floating in savory soups creamy white and speckled with fresh chives … the list goes on and on.

In between the non-stop snacking, you will have to take a break to have a proper meal. And there is only one real option that makes sense in Xitang: seafood. River shrimps boiled with ginger until they’re rosy and plump, fresh fish steamed with wine and scallions, and steamy crayfish tossed with garlic.

Xitang’s restaurants’ rustic charms do not disappoint. However, the pick of the local restaurants is the cheap (in price) and delicious Qian Tang Ren Jia (钱塘人家). It’s near the center of town where two canals intersect like a large 'T'. Go early but expect a wait because crowds flock there daily and guard their coveted spots with darting eyes and sharp elbows.

Stay awhile

If one day of doing nothing just isn’t enough, make a weekend of it. The Jin Shui Lou Ge Guesthouse (to book call Ms. Wang at +86 133 7573 1700, the cost is RMB 100-180 a night) is outfitted with Qing-style furnishings that are a throw back to the olden days but with modern-day conveniences like private showers and air conditioning that are necessary to make your lazy weekend truly relaxing.

Aside from prolonging your leisure time, staying overnight makes it easier to catch the town during its prettiest times -- sunrise and nightfall. Wake up early enough to watch dawn break or at least drag yourself to the window to see the mist rising off the water.

Equally idyllic is dusk in Xitang. Once the sun sets, strings of red lanterns slowly turn on, infusing the velvety night with their glow. You can play a part in lighting the town by buying wish candles (RMB 5 for half a dozen) -- tea lights outfitted in origami holders intricately folded in the shape of boats, stars and flowers. Finish the day by grabbing a seat by the canal and watch as these tiny lights bob along the inky waters, flickering in the darkness, each one a wish waiting to be fulfilled.

Zen, pure Zen.

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