5 best low-key jazz bars in Seoul
Given the recent frenzy of concerts and festivals, Seoul's jazz fans have plenty of opportunities to hear good bands jam live these days and most are eagerly awaiting the Jarasum Jazz festival in October.
Jazz in Seoul has come a long way since local musicians first picked it up from visiting American bands in the 1960s while playing gigs at U.S. military clubs. One of the pioneering independents was the Janus Jazz Club, which was opened in 1978 by first-generation performers including local legends vocalist Park Sungyeon, bassist Kim Suyeol and saxophonist Lee Pangeun.
Although the Korean jazz experience used to be more casual, hotel bars and Cheongdam venues have turned it into an upscale experience that is more about the setting than the music.
For anyone looking for low-key venues to enjoy some good jazz performances, here are five of the best in Seoul.
La Clé: cozy and personal
Meaning "key" in French, La Clé is one of the most informal venues in the capital.
At this cozy bar, a warm glow bounces off old wooden panels, creating a comfy and exclusive hideaway vibe. Antique clocks, telephones and other timeworn baubles add a touch of vintage.
Although the decor may not be upscale, the gigs are certainly on par with many of the better-known jazz venues in Seoul.
“We’ve had excellent local talent including the first generation percussionist extraordinaire Kim Daehwan and sax legend Kang Taehwan perform at our venue back in the days," says owner Youngwon Lee, who is a picture book illustrator by day. "Also, the acclaimed guitarist Jung Jaeyeol has been with us for the past 10 years jamming every Saturday.”
Star-studded history aside, this cozy club is all about intimacy, and by that we mean that the band will be performing only a couple of meters away from where you sit.
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Directions: Take the green minibus No. 11 from either exit 4 Seoul City Station, or exit 2 Gwanghwamun Station, and get off at the Prime Minister’s official residence. Enter the alley next to the restaurant Cheongsoojung on the main Samcheong-dong Street.
Showtimes: Sunday-Thursday: 8:30 p.m.-10:45 p.m. Friday-Saturday: 8:00 p.m.-10:45 p.m.
Prices: Cover charge ￦3,000; house wine ￦8,000; cheese plate ￦5,000 when ordering house wine; pastas ￦8,000–10,000; Hoegaarden/Heineken ￦7,000; cocktails ￦8,000,
Samcheong-dong 95-2, Jongro-gu (종로구 삼청동 95-2); +82 2 734 7752; Hours: Monday-Saturday: 6 p.m.- 1a.m., Sunday: 6 p.m.-midnight
All That Jazz: revamped brio
The granddaddy of jazz bars in Korea, All that Jazz opened in 1976 and many local legends including the first generation saxophonist Jung Sungjo and drummer Ryu Boksung made their names here.
“Although Jung Sungjo who’s been with us since the very beginning is leaving for the United States this month, Ryu Boksung will continue to grace the stage every other Saturday," says Sungcheol Jin, the public relations representative at All that Jazz who is also a music producer. "Kuma Park and JHG, both hotshot contemporary jazz bands are scheduled for the weekends as well.”
Located in the newly trendy neighborhood of Itaewon, All That Jazz recently moved from its former nondescript location to a spacious and stylish lounge behind the Hamilton Hotel.
At the new venue, which is qualitatively and quantitatively more accommodating, the bar is poised to retain former fans and attract additional customers. Already, the bar has brio in abundance and an earthy community vibe.
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Directions: From Itaewon Station exit 1, walk up the alley to your left, turn right and walk down about 50 meters.
Showtimes: www.allthatjazz.kr
Prices: Cover charge ￦5,000; beer ￦5,000–8,000; house wine ￦7,000; cocktails ￦9,000; pizza ￦15,000; assorted ham and cheese platter ￦22,000.
Itaewon-dong 112-4, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, Korea (서울시 용산구 이태원동 112-4); +82 2 795 5701; Hours: Monday-Thursday: 6:30 p.m.-1 a.m., Friday-Sunday: 6:30 p.m.-2 a.m.
Soul to God: stylish newcomer
The most upscale venue on this list, this late-night restaurant cum jazz bar manages to be both contemporary and inviting, and takes pride in featuring aspiring jazz talents usually fronted by charismatic vocalists.
Venue owner Seunghwan Lee likes to showcase bands that have “both outstanding talent and mass appeal,” and musicians from Europe, the United States and Japan are also invited to perform two to three times a month. In July, drummer Ralph Peterson Jr. and pianist David Berkman from New York performed in front of an excited crowd here.
The venue also offers a great selection of drinks and food with a large bar and a mixologist with an extensive cocktail repertoire. Versatile and spacious, Soul to God is suitable for all kinds of groups and occasions. Patrons include couples, groups of friends or work colleagues looking for an unconventional round two.
Outdoor seating is available in good weather.
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Directions: From Hakdong Intersection, walk towards Galleria intersection and make a right at the Café 74 alley, walk uphill to the top (next to Goshen).
Showtimes: www.soultogod.co.kr
Prices: No cover charge but 10 percent VAT is added on all foods and drinks; cocktails ￦22,000-28,000; pasta ￦18,000–28,000; pizza ￦30,000–39,000.
3/F 89-4 Cheongdam-dong, Gangnam-gu (강남구 청담동 89-4 스타빌딩 3층); +82 2 544 0095; Hours: 5 p.m.-4 a.m.
Crazy Horse: rock and romp
Located on the main strip of Garosugil, this brightly-colored basement bar is named after an old jazz bar in Washington D.C. as well as the heroic Native American chieftain.
The co-owners, who were both guitarists themselves, handpick the artists who perform at their venue.
“We simply try to find the best out there -- we hold auditions to weed out the chaff and house the most talented at our club,” says co-owner Eungsuk Kim.
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Directions: Enter Garosugil from Sinsa station exit 8, Crazy Horse is across from Café Deux Crème.
Showtimes: www.crazyhorse.kr
Prices: The weekend cover charge varies from ￦5,000-￦8,000 according to performances, but is waived Monday through Thursday. Beer ￦ 8,000-12,000; cocktails ￦13,000-14,000; assorted cheese ￦35,000.
546-6 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu (신사동 546-6 B1); +82 2 511 9436; Hours: 6 p.m. -2 a.m.
Club Evans: Hongdae fervor
Named after jazz legend Bill Evans who holds a special place in the owner’s heart, Club Evans puts on quite a show for its young clientele.
The venue’s back wall is an artistic rendering of light brown bricks stacked in an uneven keel to create a dynamic three-dimensional look for the stage.
“This place draws you in instantly -- you really get immersed in the performance,” says Jennifer Yang, a first-time visitor from Canada who came to see Soullogy, a contemporary jazz band led by trumpeter Kim Sungmin.
Anyone with claustrophobia should probably skip this one on the weekends however, when it tends to get completely packed.
Deeply plugged into the local Hongdae music scene, the club also has its own recording studio and jazz academy for aspiring talents.
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Directions: Facing Hongik University at the fork in the road, turn right and walk down until you hit 7-Eleven. The club is located on the second floor of the building.
Showtimes: 9 p.m –midnight.
Prices: Beer ￦4,000-12,000; cocktails ￦5,000-7,000; side dishes ￦7,000-12,000.
407-8 Sangsu-dong Mapo-gu (마포구 상수동 407-8); +82 2 337 8361; www.clubevans.com Hours: Weekdays: 7:30 p.m.-midnight, weekends: 7:30 p.m.-2:00 a.m.
