Bed, breakfast and Buddha in Kolkata

How many mother and son duos do you know who backpack together through South Asia then open a bed and breakfast establishment in their home city? From their travels, Santasree and Devdan Chaudhuri began to believe that there were potentially hundreds of travelers like them (tourists, volunteering social workers, students) who are looking for clean, comfortable and reasonably priced accommodation that would also help them gain some insight into the local lifestyle. In this case sleepy, socialist leaning Kolkata -- a city where you're prone to meet all sorts of savants.     

A B&B by travelers for travelers

Many hurdles later, the Chaudhuris managed to get Bodhi Tree, their boutique guest house in Kolkata, officially recognized as a B&B under the Government of India's tourism department. Located in a quiet neighborhood in a southern part of Kolkata, it is the only recognized B&B not only in Kolkata, but the entire eastern region of the country. 

A short, convenient walk from the Rabindra Sarovar station of the metro railway (Kolkata's version of MRT), the Bodhi Tree can connect you with the city center easily. What's more important is the unique experience of their moderately spacious double bedrooms, each of which introduces some aspect of Indian art. For example, Bengal art rules the theme in the Kalachakra room while you get a taste of Rajasthani art in the Vajrayana room. 

Nothing can be more energizing than a turn at the cool, mini-garden attached at the back of the house -- Uruvela – complete with a benign Buddha statue, a bonsai peepul tree and a small library -- at the end of a chaotic and tiring day. 

Rs 2,200 per day (and upwards depending on the room) guarantees you the basics -- an air conditioner, an LCD television and free WiFi connectivity. The price also includes breakfast and you can order meals, separately priced. There are special concessions for women travelers.

Stay with an Indian artist who speaks fluent Japanese

Other homeowners like the Chaudhuri's are not unwilling to furnish a part of their homes as a B&B, but many have been deterred by the cumbersome and time-consuming government recognition policies. Good people like the Lahiri family have not sought formal recognition for their guest house, but put up guests recommended by authorized travel agents who take care of the police verification and registration formalities.

Not strictly a B&B -- they also include dinner in the Rs 500 per day charge -- this home-stay can accommodate just one person. And it's usually a Japanese. The Lahiris happen to have an intimate knowledge of the Japanese language and culture. The elderly Beni Madhav Lahiri, an artist and government-listed Japanese language interpreter, and his wife Dhara are popular with young Japanese visitors to the city, especially women, who often refer to them as Papa-san and Mama-san.

Their single-bed room is not large but snug and clean, and the visitor can make use of the family's television and computer. A short hop by bus or autorickshaw from the Belgachhia station of the metro railway, will take you to the Lahiri home, located in the northern part of Kolkata.

Hopefully recent efforts to streamline guidelines and policies by the tourism department will resolve the concerns of homeowners willing to set up a B&B in India, but in the meantime these amazingly cool, one-of-a-kind Kolkata residents have found a tiny, special niche for themselves in the travel industry under a quiet rock in a corner of eastern India.

Bodhi Tree, 48/44, Swiss Park, Kolkata, West Bengal; tel. +91 (0) 33 2424 6534; bodhitree-cal.spaces.live.com; Rs 2,200/person/day

Mr. B M Lahiri, 75 Sarat Chatterjee Road, Flat-B, (Above Su-Kam store), Kolkata, West Bengal; tel. +91 (0) 33 2574 0315; Rs 500/person/day

With such limited options, advance booking is recommended, especially during the peak winter season.