Designer dinners: The humble Indian thaali set gets a luxury makeover

Interior designer Gunjan Gupta is on a mission to lever Indian craft into discussions about contemporary design around the world. Her latest object of devotion is a range of thaali-inspired dinnerware by which she reclaims a vital part of the traditional Indian meal experience.

Thaalis are traditionally made of stainless steel, and consist of a large round plate with a deep lip and a matching set of bowls.

"India is becoming increasingly Westernized," says the Delhi-based designer, "in this case even down to what we eat off. We're eating off Rosenthal dishes now, and the concept of the thaali is disappearing from our culture."

It's fine dining, it's global, it's beautiful but it's also traditional.

— Gunjan Gupta

Gupta's Dinner Stack, however, elevates the humble household object to a whole new level. Her's are made from silver and gold plated brass, pure silver or pure gold.

The Dinner Stack began life as a project for a Janice Blackburn-curated show at Sotheby's London last year, exploring the structural integrity of the thaali and storing vessels, known as matka bhowai, which are presented in sculptural stacks: one for eating, one for serving. 

"The idea was to do a project to reignite a cultural experience that's very Indian," she says. "It's fine dining, it's global, it's beautiful but it's also traditional."

And it's now available in India, launched at Janice Blackburn-curated lunches in New Delhi and Mumbai, with prices from Rs 50,000 for the nine-piece stack, to Rs 3.5 lakh for the pure gold set. Some of Mumbai's wealthiest women received invitations for the lunch at the Taj Mahal hotel.   

"It is definitely aimed at a culturally savvy consumer," says Gupta. "One who is interested in a more traditional yet out-of-the-box dining experience for guests. India’s now making sushi platters for the international market. Why not make Indian-inspired ware for the Indian market, and that way, introduce the West to the best of Indian ideas? It’s a lot more fun and also sets you apart."

Gupta, whose company Wrap is based in New Delhi, says she’s constantly looking for new ways to interpret India’s rich cultural heritage. Her designs are supported by Cultivate, a philanthropic organization aimed at promoting Indian art and design in India and internationally.

Gupta’s Dinner Stack and Matka Bhowai Vessel Stack are available at New Delhi’s Seven Art Gallery.