Bal Thackeray's fashion designer, in the house

Madhav Agasti designed costumes for Amrish Puri's on-screen portrayal of the legendary villain Mogambo and a host of other Bollywood bad guys through the 1970s and 1980s.

Today Agasti tailors for politicians such as Vilasrao Deshmukh, Sushil Kumar Shinde and Bal Thackeray, revealing something about the Shiv Sena party supremo's sartorial sense.

Originally from Nagpur, 61-year-old Agasti swears on his scissors, "You wear my clothes and you will become rich and powerful."

CNNGo: Your career began as a costume designer for Hindi movies in the 1970s. What was your first hit movie?

Madhav Agasti: Madhavs Mens Mode first started in Dadar in 1974. Can you believe from the time I started I have designed clothes for over 400 movies? I was the get-up specialist for villains.

The first movie I designed for under my own name was in 1979. It was called "Mere Apna Parai."

My first real hit though was an Amrish Puri movie -- I’ve forgotten the movie's name now!

CNNGo: Which other famous Hindi film actors have you styled for?

Agasti: From Salman Khan to Aamir Khan, Jackie Shroff and Govinda, I designed for all their first movies, through the 1980s. I have worked with Shammi Kapoor and Dev Anand too. Great people.

Designing costumes for Amrish Puri's Mogambo (one of Bollywood's most famous villains ever) was my most memorable film project.

CNNGo: What are the differences between designing clothes for Bollywood then and now?

Agasti: In the past I used to tell the movie guys what to do, from choosing the right pen down to the shoes sometimes. I am not just a designer.

Nowadays I do much less Bollywood because what does it involve? One trip to London to pick up some stylish clothes and khalas.

Earlier, in the 1990s, the movies were more costume-based. At that time a character came alive because of both the costume and the star that he was. Today everything is just about the star.

"You wear my clothes and you will become rich and powerful," says designer Agasti, who is originally from Nagpur.

Agasti: I don’t believe in all this PR. My work should speak for me. And to be honest with you, I think that my clientele, both Bollywood stars and politicians, appreciate me more because I am out of the limelight.

I believe there’s a certain increased trust factor that comes into play when you yourself are not a celebrity.

CNNGo: You now design and tailor clothes for some of the country's most powerful politicians, including Mumbai's Bal Thackeray. Are Indian politicians style conscious?

Agasti: Everyone in politics is stylish these days. Today you have to care about how you look.

If you’re overweight you will be interested in finding someone who makes you slimmer and if you’re too slim you will be interested in finding someone who knows what cut to give you.

Especially when you’re on the campaign trail it’s very important to look your best.

Today all the politicians only wear designer clothes.

CNNGo: Which Indian politicians have an innate sense of style?

Agasti: Everyone does, but everyone is different also. Former prime minister L.K. Advani for example, wears bandhgala jackets with three buttons.

Farooq Abdullah (former chief minister of Jammu and Kashmir, now the incumbent energy minister) likes jackets with piping along the collar.

Shiv Sena party founder and chief, Bal Thackeray wears a kurta, pajama and shawl most of the time. He likes thick linens -- generally off-white and white only.

CNNGo: So do politicians play it safe, sartorially?

Agasti: Most politicians like to wear white. Because it is a color that is visually appealing to the eye.

Till date few politicians have really experimented with color, but why are we talking about color?

More important is the cut. When I design I think of how to make someone’s presence felt -- and that is generally all about cut.

A bespoke Nehru jacket design work-in-progress, for an important bureaucrat client.

Agasti: White pants and a white shirt, generally in linen.

You think it looks simple but that's because you cannot tell how expensive the material is.

All white is the best for me -- no thinking involved -- no planning any combination.

CNNGo: What is a surprising fact that we don't know about you?

Agasti: Boxing legend Mohammad Ali is probably the most famous person I have designed for. Mohammad Ali was first class, yaar, first class. He has been to my shop twice.

Till about eight years back I used to do all his black suits for him. He never went anywhere else.   

CNNGo: Would you ever consider moving to the capital for work?

Agasti: Arre bhai, Bombay mein sab kuch hai. (My brother, Bombay has everything.)

What is even New York, London, Paris or Milan in comparison? Kuch nahi. Nothing.

Madhav Men’s Mode, Rizvi Mahal, near Bhabha Hospital, Water Field Road, Bandra (W); +91 (0)22 26424887, 26406367