Urban jungles: Hunting down the smell of wet earth in South Mumbai

The animal shaped hedges at Hanging Gardens' Pherozshah Mehta Garden.

"Mumbai is a 'work in progress' perenially," is what a friend of mine often says. Thanks to the accelerated pace of development here, finding anything close to what you might call a green oasis, in the midst of this madness, is a challenge. For many, the National Park in Borivali, known as the 'Lungs of Mumbai', is the only real green space, but we're increasingly cut off from that oxygen source by our ever expanding concrete jungle. 

In the meanwhile we get by with these smaller green oxygen banks, aka parks, most of which are located in South Mumbai.

Sagar Upvan aka BPT gardens 

Fifteen years ago, if anyone came to this spot, located just behind the Colaba Bus Depot, all they would have found was a garbage dump. However, thanks to the pro-active efforts of the Bombay Port Trust (MbPT) and World Wildlife Fund-India (WWF), a garden was conceptualized on the reclaimed land. Spanning an area of around 12 to 14 acres, this garden is any botanist's and photographer's dream come true.

At a mere entry fee of Rs 2, you're exposed to a well maintained garden with some of the most exotic plant species. As soon as one enters the garden, one is greeted by the sight of various kinds of trees -- palm, bamboo, banyan. There are boards displaying the common name as well as the scientific name of every tree. A checkered stone pathway allows easy seepage of water.

The garden has many sections: Rockery Garden, Cactus Garden, Sea-Shore Point and plant nurseries. The fascinating Cactus Garden is located just two minutes from the entrance. It houses cacti of all varieties; a lot of flowering cacti are also present here. The rock garden has an interesting landscape. The varying slopes in the garden add to the overall experience as it does not limit the garden to being just a flat piece of land. The Seashore Point has dedicated sea-facing benches for tired morning walkers to relax and enjoy the breeze. 

You will come across a lot of cats, lizards and egrets and other pleasant companions. The garden employs methods like waste-water treatment to help with the conservation of water.

It is always buzzing with students and photographers, along with the regular bunch of of morning and evening walkers. The garden authorities have started a 'Know Your Garden' educational tour of 45 minutes every Sunday, which begins at 7 a.m.

W G Union Rd, Beside Colaba Bus Depot, Colaba. Closest landmark, Sasson Dock. Entry Fee: Rs 2; free for senior citizens; Rs 5 for still camera and Rs 20 for video camera. Timings: Daily 6-11am and 4.30-8.30 p.m.

Hanging Gardens aka Kamla Nehru Park

Located in one of the priciest areas in Mumbai, the Hanging Gardens is a very popular destination. It is named so because of the height at which it is situated. Also known as Pherozshah Mehta Garden or Kamla Nehru Park, this spot was built in 1881 and houses a water reservoir, which provides clean water to the city.

The garden complex is divided by a road. On one side is a children's park which houses the famous Old Woman's Shoe, a stone structure with a spiral staircase within it. This garden also has a jungle gym. The entire stretch of the Queen's Necklace is visible from the periphery and from this height, the view is brilliant. On the other side of the road, the garden concentrates more on landscaping and has memorable animal-shaped hedges. The only annoying aspect are the speakers located at each lamp post which spew music. Even though the music may be pleasant, for some, I think it kills the experience of a stroll in the park. 

With no entry fee, this expansive garden is a lovely spot to spend an early morning. Moreover the Arabian Sea can be viewed at this height from the Hanging Gardens only -- unless you have a sea-facing apartment in the surrounding skyscrapers.

Malabar Hill, Walkeshwar. Also Known as Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens or Kamla Nehru Park. Timings: 5 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Entry is free.

Mazagoan Hill aka Joseph Baptista garden

You may know it as Bhandarwada Hill reservoir or the old Joseph Baptista garden -- names have come and names have gone -- but to get here you need to ask for Mazagoan Hill. Located behind the Dockyard Road railway station, opposite St. Peter's School, this garden looms above the sleepy pocket of Mazagoan. It is quite popular among the joggers, senior citizens of the locality and the student community.

Mazagoan hill, like the Hanging Gardens, is located on a water reservoir. It was constructed under the tutelage of the second municipal commissioner of Bombay, John Grant, in 1884.

Broadly divided into three parts, the upper portion is the renovated main garden area, which, sadly, has the ground sullied by paver blocks. Landscaping is quite good with patches of green lawns sprinkled throughout. A musical fountain is also present. You can locate many plants such as the hibiscus, cycas and bougainvilla among others. The other portion is at a slightly lower altitude and comprises the children’s park, and the third portion is a garden area, with dedicated pathways for morning walkers. On the far right hand side, many round tent-like structures are present, and meant for students. This portion of the park makes me nostalgic as I had studied in these very tents during the last two years of my college life.

As the garden is located at a considerable height above the ground, one can easily view the harbor. The ships and boats bobbing along with the crests and troughs of the waves, in the Arabian Sea, can be easily seen from the periphery of the garden. From the southern end, one can see the railway lines.

The hill has many routes to enter the garden; each one surrounded by old trees. The smell of wet earth is a constant here. It also houses a nursery just beside the officials' quarters. On the other extremity, one will come across an old temple.

Bhandarwada Water Reservoir, Ismail Waghoo Road, Mazagoan. Closest landmark: St. Peter's School. Also known as Joseph Baptista Gardens. Timings: 5 a.m.-8 p.m. Entry is free.

Horniman Circle aka Bombay Greens

This is not exactly a secret green-spot in Mumbai. What sets it apart from other gardens is the fact that it is located bang in the middle of a business district which houses over 30 banks and the massive Bombay Stock Exchange building. A circular area covering over 10,000 square metres, it is concentrated with trees, well-manicured lawns and dedicated pathways around the garden. It has an abstract art-deco sculpture in the circular fountain which is located in the center of the garden. On the left-hand side of the main entrance gate, you have the children's jungle gym. 

Built in 1872, this area was formerly called Bombay Greens. Post independence, it was renamed Horniman Circle after Benjamin Horniman, the pro-independence editor of the Bombay Chronicle. Another piece of history lies just outside this garden in the form of a banyan tree. Under the shade of this tree, 22 stock brokers started trading in the 1850s. Nostalgia is abundant in this garden, be it the wrought iron gates or the colonial style park benches. An interesting addition is the painted art on the benches itself. A host to a lot of plays and concerts during annual festivals such as the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival and Prithvi Theatre Festival, Horniman Circle doubles up as a cultural venue as well. 

Veer Nariman Road, Horniman Circle, Fort. Closest landmark: Asiatic Library. Timings: 10 a.m.-8 p.m. (closed Saturdays). Entry is free.