Madh Island gives up its prettiest secrets

“What are you doing on Sunday?”
“I’m cycling to Madh.”
“You’re going to Aksa beach?”
“No. Beyond Aksa.”
“Is there anything beyond Aksa?”

My conversation with a friend just about sums up how much we really know about Madh. Think Madh ‘island’ and all roads lead to the (in)famous Aksa beach.

I had been curious about Madh and always wondered whether it had something more than just a beach to offer. Usually accustomed to discovering and unearthing new places and roads on my motorcycle, this time I decided I needed something slower, something that would let me soak in everything, one pedal at a time.

This is what the cycling around Madh did for me. You really couldn’t imagine that something so beautiful exists within the confines of Mumbai.

It’s like entering a time warp -- one moment you’re in the frantic city traffic; take a turn from Malad, and the next moment you’re entered a different zone.

I slowly cycled my way up the familiar road to Aksa.

Within no time I had crossed the road that leads to Aksa and now I was on virgin territory. It’s so much fun when you’re on a bicycle. Life seems to unfold a few notches below the regular pace and you can experience everything around you on a more intimate level. You notice the trees, the birds, the animals, the people, the sights and the sounds.

The morning unfolded in sync with my pace on the bike, gradual and leisurely.

A little ahead was a gravel-filled turn to the right. I stopped, wondering whether or not I should take the turn. Then again, I was on explore mode, right? So off I went into the unknown, only to be rewarded by the lovely blue hues of the wide open sea.

I sat there, breathing in the crisp morning air and just listening to the sound of the sea.

A little ahead, the road ends at the Dana-Pani beach. Lesser known than Aksa and less crowded too. Here, tanned local boys and some outsiders were enjoying what most people enjoy on Sundays in India -- a game of cricket.

After watching an impromptu seaside match, it was time to turn back and join the main road.

I stopped at a wayside joint for a cup of tea, drawing some curious glances from the local folk. A few of them struck up a conversation and one of them mentioned this "really old church." 

Curious, I wandered along till I reached the quant little Erangal village with a signboard that read, "15th century church of St. Bonaventure."

A 500-year-old church!

I pedalled my way into the village amidst local houses, the waves of hands, the smiles and the curious kids.

And there it was, literally on a secluded beach, resplendent and still standing proud after all these years. Although it had clearly seen better times, the old structure was impressive nonetheless.

Built way back in 1575, the church saw regular Catholic activity till 1739 when it fell under the Maratha invasion, after which it went from being a church to a cluster of abandoned ruins. It wasn’t until 1976 when the parish priest of Madh Church got the dilapidated building restored and regular church activity started all over again.

I took in the sights and sounds, just walking about, looking at the church, at the sea and back at the church again, wondering what it must have been like to be standing here in 1575.

I snapped out of my daydream when the sun began bearing down upon me. Off I went, again, thinking I had seen all there is to see. Boy, was I wrong. 

Click through for more on Gaurang's Madh adventure.

The road through Madh is really nice to cycle on. It winds, twists, turns and even climbs in parts, all amongst a coastal sprawl where the old exists with the new. Where the Kolis co-exist with the East Indian Roman Catholics.

Another chai break and I came to know of a centuries old fort. Here? In Madh? Really? This just keeps getting better and better.

The way to the fort is almost at the end of the road, near Madh jetty. A road branches off to the right, passing through a pretty, wooded area.

As I slowly cycled I got my first striking view of the fort.

Unfortunately in my excitement I hadn’t noticed the gates and the guards stationed there.

Apparently, the fort stands on naval land and to get inside, you need permission from the navy base at Marve.

I wasn’t complaining. I hadn’t expected much, leave aside a 500-year-old church and a centuries-old Portuguese fort.

I just sat there in the shade, under the watchful eyes of the guards, feeling a sense of satisfaction at my impulsive decision to cycle around Madh.

Just then one of the guards suggested I should pay a visit to the tiny 200-year-old temple just a little off the road.

Additional info: The entire stretch mentioned above is approximately 10 kilometers and can be done in around four hours depending on the number of stops.

It’s best to try and get to Marve and start biking before 7 a.m.

Map: http://tinyurl.com/madhisland

If you want to come in from the Andheri side there are regular ferries to Madh from Versova.

From Malad you need to get on to the Malad-Marve road and follow the road till Madh.

For breaks and refreshments: Try The Retreat (5 Star) and Erangal beach

Distances:
Colaba to Marve: 41 kilometers
Dahisar to Marve: 12 kilometers