8 Mumbai tourist traps to see before they die

In any city there is usually a score of "must-do-things" to seek out. In Mumbai they may include a gig at Blue Frog, home shopping at Good Earth, seafood at Trishna -- these are the best of Mumbai modern. But what about those experiences that have been around since before Independence, which are, unfortunately, in danger of extinction?

As the old gives way to the new, so these classic Mumbai experiences are in danger of fading away, unsung. Some call them tourist traps, we claim them as a part of our urban entertainment history.

Ever since the horse carts were removed from Juhu Beach, Colaba remains the only place where you can get an old school joyride after midnight.

Colaba horse carriages

There was a time when you could take these regal rides almost anyplace in Mumbai, as a legit means of transport. But then faster automobiles with more horsepower came and took over their turf. Now, they are available only as joyrides, only in Colaba. Near the Gateway of India and Taj Mahal Hotel await the remaining handful queing in line by the curb. There are no fixed rate-cards to go by, so haggling will be required. Expect to pay Rs 150 upwards for a ten minute ride. You can pay more and get longer rides too. And while you're at it, go the whole hog and take the carriages with the flashing lights and balloons and all. Don’t be shy.

Kyani & Co. is one of the few Irani cafes that retain their old-world charm.

Irani cafes

A culinary tour of Mumbai remains incomplete without a visit to one of the few Irani cafes that remain in the city. These quaint cafes started sprouting across town in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and soon became an intrinsic part of Mumbai. The owners were notoriously cranky, yet these eateries managed to become hugely popular, despite their famous 'Do not comb. Do not wash hands at table. Do not shout. Do not argue with waiters.' etcetera rules. Perhaps, it had to do with the basic but very tasty food available at very affordable prices -- Irani cafes did and still do offer great value for money. Some of these cafes changed and became more modern -- like Leopold Café and Café Mondegar in Colaba. Others retain their old-world charm like Kyani & Co. at Dhobi Talao. We especially recommend the brun-maska (sliced bun slathered with sinful amounts of butter) and Irani chai (tea) to go with it. 

Get cheap beer, deep fried snacks and a great beach views at Hotel Seaview.

Seaside ‘shacks’

Once upon a time, Mumbai used to have a multitude of small shacks dotting its beaches until the big hotels came and wiped them from the map. One of the last remaining is Hotel Seaview, near Citizen Hotel, on Juhu Beach. While it might not get any Michelin stars for its fare or service -- the waiter dropped beer into our lap the last time we were there -- there are two reasons why it should be on your 'must-visit' list. Cheap beer (they do not serve any other alcoholic beverage), and a great view of the sea, two things you rarely find together in this city. Their fish fry is our favorite accompaniment to chilled beer and balmy weather.

The black-and-yellow Premier Padminis are being phased out in favour of newer, swankier models as are the double decker buses.

Vintage transport

New York has its yellow cabs, Mumbai has its black-and-yellow ones. London has its iconic red double-deckers, we do too. But perhaps not for long. The hardy Premier Padmini cabs (also called Fiats, from the Fiat 1100s which these evolved from) once ruled the city roads, alongside that other trusty Indian workhorse, the Ambassador. But modernization and updated emission standards have sounded the death knell for this icon of Mumbai. New regulations have been put into place to phase out all old vehicles in stages and the Premier Padminis haven’t been manufactured in over a decade. Already, there are modern Maruti Suzukis, Hyundais and Mahindra Renaults with electronic meters and air conditioning taking over. Flag down the mechanical meter and experience essential Mumbai nostalgia before it’s gone. Ditto with the impressive double decker buses. Running on limited routes, mostly in South Mumbai, No. 66 from Ballard Pier to Chunabhatti and No. 138 from Backbay Depot to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus are two of them. These buses are a treat to ride in. Especially if you manage to snag the seats right up front on the upper level.

Your wallet won’t feel the pinch watching movies at Gaiety-Galaxy-Gemini.

Single screen, independent movie theatres

While there are indisputable merits to watching a movie at an IMAX theatre or even at the swankier multiplex chains, the costs can be a bit of a deterrent for some. Especially when you end up spending Rs 200 or more each time -- popcorn not included. And that is one of the main reasons smaller and independently held screens like Chandan in Juhu, Bharatmata in Parel and the Gaiety-Galaxy-Gemini complex (it has seven small screens in all) in Bandra have managed to put up a tough, though losing battle. You can watch a movie here for under 100 bucks, inclusive of popcorn and a cold-drink. Jai ho.

Parts of Crawford Market are in danger of being redeveloped as modern structures.

Crawford Market

Crawford Market -- or as the current official name goes, Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai -- was built in 1869 and is now a Grade I heritage structure that’s a wholesale indoor market for fruits, vegetables and flowers and a market for imported cosmetics, groceries and household goods. If BMC goes ahead with its plans of redeveloping this Mumbai landmark, then it might soon be juxtaposed alongside a modern mall. So head there right now to get your fix of imported Kraft cheese or that vintage looking tin of Nivea cold cream.

It’s getting progressively harder to come by Aarey’s Energee brand of flavored milk typical of Mumbai.

Aarey Milk Centres

The tiny booths selling the Energee brand of flavored milk are so ubiquitous in the city, that they have almost become a blind spot. But if recent news reports are to be believed, Aarey, the dairy organization that owns these booths, is in deep trouble. Apparently, it’s pegging up losses of Rs 8-10 crores a year and 400 out of its 1,800 booths in the city are in a state of disuse. And we can say from personal experience that the yummy Energee milk (our favorite flavor is elaichi, or cardamom) is getting progressively harder to come by.

The Mahakali Caves in Andheri East, dating back to between 1st century BCE and 6th century CE, are facing encroachment.

Rock-cut caves

While the caves on Elephanta Island off the coast of Mumbai are perhaps spoken about the most, there are other rock-cut caves within Mumbai city that are equally fascinating and even older. Tucked away in the suburb of Andheri East are the Mahakali Caves (also called the Kondivita Caves) that date back to between 1st century BCE and 6th century CE. In the neighboring suburb of Jogeshwari, you will find another set of rock-cut caves dating to 6th century CE. And then further up north, within Borivali’s Sanjay Gandhi National Park, are the Kanheri Caves that date back to between 1st century BCE and 9th century CE. Borivali also houses the Mandapeshwar Caves and the Magathane Caves, all dating to between 5th and 6th century CE. Of all these brilliant examples of ancient Hindu and Buddhist architecture, the ones in Magathane have already been damaged irreparably due to encroachments and erosion. Catch a glimpse of ancient history before the others crumble due to governmental negligence.