Tote on the Turf's bespoke Sunday brunch

Rahul Akerkar, the man behind Indigo, Indigo Deli and Tote on the Turf, has a penchant for firsts. He had the first stand-alone classy dining experience in Mumbai at Indigo; the wine list there was the first in India to win recognition by Wine Spectator magazine; and Indigo was also the first to introduce Mumbai to a social Sunday brunch setting to compare to other urban hot spots of the world.

And now here's another, from the head of deGustibus Hospitality, owner of Tote on the Turf: Tote's Sunday brunch, the closest attempt in Mumbai at an a la carte proposition with a buffet price tag. 

This brunch isn’t about a set-piece smorgarsbord. Under a natural ceiling of towering rainforest trees, the Tote brunch features several live stations -- one for each category of cuisine. All items with the exception of the salads are either barbecued or grilled on the spot. 

Brunch standards like eggs and waffles have their place alongside Indian and Western barbecues, risottos, pasta and the recently popular Burmese khowsuey (curry with an assortment of accompaniments such as noodles, rice, chicken and prawns).

Those who missed breakfast or are waiting for hungover friends to arrive, can begin with the salads. Or nibble on a crisp, almost feather-like wood-fired oven pizza (margherita, artichoke or pepperoni) and then work the appetite up to attack the Indian and Western barbecue, choosing to either stand by the barbecue counter where the skewered meat simmers above flames or be served at the table.

The choice is staggering

Cajun-rubbed chicken, citrus king prawns and beef tenderloin medallions can each vie as highlights, thickening the guests’ dilemma. The Indian barbecue menu notably includes the nihari -- lamb shanks cooked in a lightly spiced Lucknavi gravy, another traditional breakfast favorite from up north.

There’s a dedicated counter for roasted bhutta (corn on the cob) -- a nice touch that tips the hat to a traditional Mumbai monsoon street snack.

deGustibus’s corporate executive chef Nitin Kulkarni says that the live stations aren’t just about real-time cooking but about engaging the guests. "The guests can effectively communicate their recipe or style of cooking to the chefs manning the live counters. This aspect not only adds further variety to the brunch, it takes chef-diner communication to a whole other level."

The restaurant's signature gourmet pastas and risottos are made to order from a variety of sauces and meats. The stars of the dessert selection are inarguably the white chocolate red pudding and the curiously flavored hot chocolate and jalapeno fudge.

Sober Sunday brunch bonding

The brunch does not include alcohol as most others do. Akerkar believes that the Sunday brunch is a quintessential family affair and not everyone is keen on drinking to get drunk. "It's often that people wonder why alcohol is worked into the final price when they’re not likely to consume it during the brunch. So putting it as an optional extra makes sense."

Akerkar, who is widely credited with having introduced Mumbai to a New York style Sunday brunch culture, believes it should be a bonding experience. "Brunch is about fresh food and a homely atmosphere. You don’t want to see food sitting on a chaffing dish for hours before you help yourself to it. My vision for the Tote brunch was classical outdoor dining with interactive, live counters serving freshly cooked food in a laid back, blissful space."

By this account, he seems to have nailed it.

The Tote Sunday Brunch is Rs 1,500 plus taxes and Rs 2,200 inclusive of alcohol (Indian), exclusive of taxes. 

Tote on the Turf, Mahalaxmi Race Course, Mahalaxm; tel. +91 (0) 22 6157 7777

Best of the brunch

Salads:
Cherry mozzarella, seared tomatoes, pine nuts and basil chiffonade
Seared mushrooms with caramelized onion & feta
Red cabbage and green apple coleslaw
Jerk spiced shredded beef and grilled scallions
House cured salmon with fennel dressing and picked cucumber straws

Accompaniments
Queen olives in oil, sun dried tomatoes, parmesan chunks

Western barbecue
Cajun rubbed chicken served with grainy mustard aioli
Grilled Rawas steak served with lemon basil butter
Citrus King Prawns served with pink peppercorn butter
Medallions of Beef Tenderloin with sauce Béarnaise, Jus
Corn on the cob; served with spicy lime chilly dressing and/or Creole dressing
Stuffed Bhavnagri chilly

Indian Barbeque
Saundhe Murgh
Peshawari Boti
Ajwaini Machali Tikka
Makai aur Mutter ki Sheek
Nawabi Paneer Tikka
Aloo Khushnuma

Pastas and risottos
Linguini with seafood Marinara
Rigatoni with three mushroom and caramelized onion sauce
Lobster risotto
Green garlic risotto with water chestnuts

Desserts
Black currant and Oreo cookie cheesecake
Triple chocolate terrine with sour cherry
Coconut pannacota with pineapple chutney