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Indigo's new season menu is worth a trip to Colaba
The restaurant's seasonal menu reminds us that owner/chef Rahul Akerkar still knows how to surprise the modern palate
New on the menu: caramelized onion flan with braised mutt leaf in a Madeira sauce. Winner. After losing its shine as Mumbai's fine-dine 'it' restaurant, chef Rahul Akerkar's Indigo now exudes a quiet confidence in its time-tested menu, along with one of the finest wine lists in the city.
But every once in a while, regulars from the old party days get an email inviting them to try Akerkar's new menu for the season.
"We hadn't had a menu change for a year and a half," Akerkar says.
Proof of Indigo's global/local sensibility: chocolate jalapeno fondant, salted toffee and lemon-basil ice cream.
"There's not much cream and heaviness to the new dishes this time," says Akerkar, who created them with executive chef Nitin Kulkarni. "It's not necessarily a direction we're veering in, just something we thought of doing this time. The sea bass is doing well, so's the duck."
The roast Chilean sea bass is an example of Akerkar-style innovation. It sits in a ladle of his grandmother's shengachi aamti drumstick dal. It's an interesting, local take for this fine fish, which is popular in Mumbai.
Other menu highlights include a superlative caramelized onion flan with braised mutt leaf in a Madeira sauce, spinach ravioli with poached quail egg and breast of duck braised in shaoxing, mirin and soy and served with sesame spinach and cauliflower mash.
The chocolate fondant is what to choose for dessert.
4, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Colaba; tel. +91 (0)22 66337534; www.foodindigo.com
