The street food and vendors of India

From Kerala to Mumbai to New Delhi, an intimate look at the street food of India

By Caroline Rowe 2 August, 2009

In Kerala, channa and peanuts are spiced and packaged for sale at the night market.

Channa and peanuts are spiced and packaged for sale in Kerala, at the Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park.

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - street food

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - A local of the mountain area of the Western Ghats in Kerala roasts channa, or chickpeas, over a low fire.

Kerala - As the sun sets on Kozhikode beach, the city drifts down to the beach for gossip, a paddle, and sweet iced snacks.

Kerala, Kozhikode - The classic South Indian snack, fish fry. Local fish is caught in the morning, marinated in the afternoon, and deep-fried and eaten in the evening.

Kerala, Cochin, at Fort Cochin - Bananas are for more than just breakfast. In South India they are made into savoury baked chips, flour for cakes, and spicy masala chilli snacks.

Kerala, Cochin, at Fort Cochin - street food

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - Bananas are sliced straight into a bubbling cauldron of coconut oil.

South Indian appams made with rice flour cook on the hot plate as freshly made idly steam in the background.

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - South Indian appams made with rice flour cook on the hot plate as freshly made idly steam in the background.

Mumbai Chowpatty Beach - On a Thursday night, business is brisk, as chef prepares the Mumbai classic, pav baji.

Mumbai, Chowpatty Beach - On a Thursday night, business is brisk, as chef prepares the Mumbai classic, pav baji.

Mumbai, Chowpatty Beach - Each dosa, a South Indian savoury crepe, is made to order on multiple hot plates.

Mumbai Chowpatty Beach - A man wearing traditional dhoti kurta dress sells banana chips with optional extra masala on the pavement just outside the beachfront area.

Mumbai, Chowpatty Beach - A man wearing traditional dhoti kurta dress sells banana chips with optional extra masala on the pavement just outside the beachfront area.

A stall in Mumbai’s affluent Colaba district is piled high with raw sugar cane.

Mumbai’s affluent Colaba district - street food

Sugar canes are crushed through an antique laundry ringer, giving a sweet, delicious, refreshing street side drink.

Mumbai Colaba District - Braving the midday Mumbai heat to sell kulfi, milk ice lollie, at the Gate of India.

Mumbai, Colaba District - Braving the midday Mumbai heat to sell kulfi, milk ice lollie, at the Gate of India.

Mumbai Colaba District - kulfi, milk ice

Mumbai, Colaba District - Most of the street food wallas carry their stalls on their back, and set up when security is turning a blind eye.

Mumbai, Juhu - Street snacks made to order as the vendor lets customers choose nuts, dried rice flakes, onions, cucumbers, corn and then spice level as customers can ladle on as much chilli powder and masala as they like.

Mumbai, Juhu - Street snacks made to order as the vendor lets customers choose nuts, dried rice flakes, onions, cucumbers, corn and then spice level as customers can ladle on as much chilli powder and masala as they like.

New Delhi, Red Fort - Milk ice lollies offer some respite from the Delhi pre-monsoon heat.

New Delhi, near Red Fort - Milk ice lollies

Thousands of samosa a day are filled, sealed, and fried at this popular New Delhi Chandi Chowk shop.

New Delhi, near Red Fort - Thousands of samosa a day are filled, sealed, and fried at this popular shop.

New Delhi Chandi Chowk - Giant metal urns of channa, or chickpeas, are stewed overnight and brought out for lunch.

New Delhi, near Red Fort - Giant metal urns of channa

Mumbai, Juhu - A peanut selection was served up in a recycled tourist brochure paper cone before the vendor packed up his stall and ran when he spotted the police.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Greasy deep fried puri, served with seriously hot firewater and a mischievous sense of humour.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Sprouted beans, served cold with onions, potatoes, cucumber and tomatoes in biodegradable leaf plates.

Meals on Wheels - vendors go where the business takes them, this one serving chat papri, until the police suggest otherwise.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Meals on Wheels - vendors go where the business takes them, this one serving chat papri, until the police suggest otherwise.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Clean water is stored on a block of ice and served, with a squeeze of lime, at 1 RS a glass.

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The streets of India are fertile grounds for food exploration. Pavements are crowded with makeshift stalls, stands, and people pulling entire kitchens out of their packs to set up on top of a cardboard box. Each walla (street vendor) has his own style, his own recipe -- generally for just one dish he regards his specialty -- and tries making even the cheapest of setups look attractive to draw customers.

In India, life spills out onto the pavement, meaning every stage of the preparation process is on display, and not just the finished product.

Here's a look at different vendors hawking their street food specialties in Mumbai, New Delhi, and Kerala.

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The street food and vendors of India

In Kerala, channa and peanuts are spiced and packaged for sale at the night market.

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - A local of the mountain area of the Western Ghats in Kerala roasts channa, or chickpeas, over a low fire.

Kerala, Kozhikode - The classic South Indian snack, fish fry. Local fish is caught in the morning, marinated in the afternoon, and deep-fried and eaten in the evening.

Kerala, Cochin, at Fort Cochin - Bananas are for more than just breakfast. In South India they are made into savoury baked chips, flour for cakes, and spicy masala chilli snacks.

Kerala, Kumily night market just outside Periyar National Park - Bananas are sliced straight into a bubbling cauldron of coconut oil.

South Indian appams made with rice flour cook on the hot plate as freshly made idly steam in the background.

Mumbai Chowpatty Beach - On a Thursday night, business is brisk, as chef prepares the Mumbai classic, pav baji.

Mumbai, Chowpatty Beach - Each dosa, a South Indian savoury crepe, is made to order on multiple hot plates.

Mumbai Chowpatty Beach - A man wearing traditional dhoti kurta dress sells banana chips with optional extra masala on the pavement just outside the beachfront area.

A stall in Mumbai’s affluent Colaba district is piled high with raw sugar cane.

Sugar canes are crushed through an antique laundry ringer, giving a sweet, delicious, refreshing street side drink.

Mumbai Colaba District - Braving the midday Mumbai heat to sell kulfi, milk ice lollie, at the Gate of India.

Mumbai, Colaba District - Most of the street food wallas carry their stalls on their back, and set up when security is turning a blind eye.

Mumbai, Juhu - Street snacks made to order as the vendor lets customers choose nuts, dried rice flakes, onions, cucumbers, corn and then spice level as customers can ladle on as much chilli powder and masala as they like.

New Delhi, Red Fort - Milk ice lollies offer some respite from the Delhi pre-monsoon heat.

Thousands of samosa a day are filled, sealed, and fried at this popular New Delhi Chandi Chowk shop.

New Delhi Chandi Chowk - Giant metal urns of channa, or chickpeas, are stewed overnight and brought out for lunch.

Mumbai, Juhu - A peanut selection was served up in a recycled tourist brochure paper cone before the vendor packed up his stall and ran when he spotted the police.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Greasy deep fried puri, served with seriously hot firewater and a mischievous sense of humour.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Sprouted beans, served cold with onions, potatoes, cucumber and tomatoes in biodegradable leaf plates.

Meals on Wheels - vendors go where the business takes them, this one serving chat papri, until the police suggest otherwise.

New Delhi, Chandi Chowk - Clean water is stored on a block of ice and served, with a squeeze of lime, at 1 RS a glass.

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