Mumbai's best Gujarati thali

Mumbai’s best Gujarati thali -- Recommended: Golden Star

"At Golden Star, they really pack it in the large thali,” says Sanjiv Khamgaonkar, Best Eats judge and food blogger. “Just looking at all the food on the plate exhausts you."

Three farsans, four vegetables, Gujarati dal, dal bati, dahi kadhi, dahi, four kinds of rotis, rice, pulao or masala khichdi, chutneys, papads, raitas and chaas. And endless refills by waiters who pride themselves on their ability to cajole you into excess. Not that you need the pressure.

The restaurant's maharaj or chef, who goes by the name of Mularam, likes to juggle his menu around seasons and festivals. Come winter its undhiya, a mix of fresh winter vegetables.

Yes, they follow tradition here and this means that the food does tend to be heavy on the oil and ghee. But it’s all top quality.

330, Raja Ram Mohan Roy Road, opposite Charni Road Station; +91 (22) 2363 1983. Open daily 11:30 a.m. – 3:30 p.m., 7 –10:30 p.m.; www.goldenstarthali.com