Interview: Stefan Gerber, York winemaker

An industrial town about a four-hour drive and 180 kilometers northeast of Mumbai, Nashik has been dubbed India’s Napa Valley. Wine tours and tasting rooms are springing up in vineyards around the town. The latest is the fledgling York Winery, passion project of father and son duo Lilo and Ravi Gurnani.

Since its first crush in 2008, York has been guided by young South African winemaker Stefan Gerber, who turns out competitively priced cabernet, shiraz, zinfandel and sauvignon blanc.

As we sampled wines in a spacious tasting room overlooking the York vineyards, we spoke with Gerber about the struggles of making wine in India.

CNNGo: What are the challenges of wine making in India?

Language is a massive problem. We struggle to communicate. Cultural differences -- like delivery and promises made in regards to supply. Nashik is not visited by many foreigners, communication is difficult and we don’t feel comfortable going out to local meeting places. Finally, the road from Mumbai is the scariest road in the whole world.

CNNGo: What makes York wines distinctive?

These wines are carefully managed from day one in the vineyard and harvested at optimal fenolic ripeness -- until the fruit and tannins are in balance. York started by making world-class wines and not Indian-standard wine. The difference is significant in terms of the way we make and age our wines. Our reds go through malolactic fermentation as well as ageing in wooden barrels for 14 months.

CNNGo: Is there anything about winemaking in India that strikes you as funny?

That you have numerous countries in one big country. I thought South Africans struggle to work together, but India is a lot worse. That they think that having exorbitant taxes will stop people from drinking. And why can’t the names be more original instead of copying the French and Australians?

CNNGo: Your top wines, Indian and global?

 York Wines sauvignon blanc, De Morgenzon sauvignon blanc and 10 Chapters shiraz.

getting there

York Winery, Gat 15/2, Gangavarhe Village, Gangapur-Savargaon Road, Nashik, tel. +91 96577 28070, www.yorkwinery.com

Wine tasting from noon to 10pm, daily (except dry days)