Mumbai Visitor's Guide

Mumbai today

You don’t dip your feet into Mumbai -- you dive in. Known as the commercial capital of India, the frenetic metropolis can overwhelm you with its noise, smells, crowds and chaos. But the land of Bollywood will also thrill you with its hustle and bustle, diverse art and culinary scenes, big festivals and warm, welcoming people.

• Getting in and out
• Getting around
• Language
• Good to know
• Where to stay
• What to do
• Where to eat
• Where to drink
• Where to shop
• Health and fitness
  
• Business
  
• Money
  
• Emergency info
  

Getting in and out

By Air

Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is the main international gateway to India. It is served by several dozen airlines, including a slew of new no-frills, budget domestic carriers such as Indigo airlines. 

Prepaid taxis can be booked from counters in the arrivals area. A ride to Mumbai's southernmost point of Colaba, the main tourist district, will cost about Rs 350 and take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on the time of day. But Mumbai's black and yellow cabbies are safe and reliable by and large, though not always comfortable. 

By Land

Trains arrive from all over India, stopping at one of the three key stations: Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus (downtown), Dadar Terminus (midtown) and Kurla Terminus (suburbs).

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Getting around

While slow and dilapidated, the city's signature yellow and black taxis are also cheap and convenient. The readings on the mechanical meters are outdated, so insist on seeing an updated fare chart carried by each driver. Auto-rickshaws are a speedier alternative, but are only permitted in the suburbs. For the comfiest and safest ride, call the Group Mobile Cool Cab Service (+91 (0) 22 2490 5151), which offers cabs with air conditioning and seat belts.

Local trains and buses do exist, but often aren't practical options for visitors.

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Language

While Marathi is the official language, used by government officials and local police, a slang form of Hindi called Bambaya Hindi is popular on the streets. Most locals also speak English, which dominates the corporate industries and a large part of mainstream media.

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Good to know

• The weather is always warm and humid, but it's most bearable between November and February when daily highs average 88°F (31°C). The monsoon can arrive anytime after late May, with the heaviest rainfall in June, July and August when it can rain for days on end. 
• Pack light-colored clothing made of airy cotton or linen. Though Bombay is more liberal than most Indian cities, modesty for women, is advised. Non-revealing attire is mandatory at temples and mosques.
• During the rainy season, bring mosquito repellent to protect against malarial mosquitoes.
• Drink only bottled water. When purchasing, make sure the seal is intact.
• Smoking is not permitted in bars, restaurants and many other public spaces.
• ATMs, located throughout the city, are the easiest way to get local currency. Most have 24-hour security.
• When greeting locals, do as they do, whether they offer a handshake or a traditional ‘namaste.’ Never greet women with a kiss, even on the hand.
• Be prepared to eat with your hands, though most restaurants will happily grant silverware upon request.
• In crowded places, don’t be afraid to push your way through or risk being pushed out of the way.
• India is four-and-a-half hours ahead of GMT time during the summer, five-and-a-half during the winter.

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Where to stay

The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower: With five restaurants, 565 elegant rooms, an historic wing and panoramic views of the landmark Gate of India and Arabian Sea, the five-star mega-hotel is the most celebrated address in (South) Mumbai. Apollo Bunder, +91 (0) 22 6665 3366

Gordon House: Chic and minimalist, this boutique hotel is a quiet refuge right in the middle of Colaba's action-packed neighborhood. 5 Battery Street, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 2287 1122

Ascot Hotel: A rare bargain, the Ascot offers fresh and modern rooms on a quiet street in Colaba. 38 Garden Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 6638 5566

Four Seasons Hotel: Centrally located in the emerging Worli district, the can't-go-wrong hotel giant whisks vacationers and business travelers into luxury with exquisite dining, an ayurveda spa and a lushly landscaped pool. 114 Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli, +91 (0) 22 2481 8000

Bentley's Hotel: One of Mumbai's most popular budget tourist hotels. The rooms, while without frills, still hint at Victorian grandeur. 17 Oliver Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 2284 1474

Trident BKC: Operated by the reputable Oberoi Group, this suave new business hotel located in the commercial Bandra-Kurla Complex of North Mumbai is for those concerned with commerce and convenience. C-56, G Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, +91 (0) 22 6672 7777 or toll free 1800 11 2122

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What to do

The Gateway of India: With its unique Hindu-meets-Muslim architectural style, the basalt arch originally built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary offers beautiful views of the coast. Apollo Bunder, +91 22 2202 3585



Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya: Formerly known as Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai's biggest museum houses a fascinating mix of artifacts, paintings and sculptures from across India, dating to the ancient Indus Valley civilization. 159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road, +91 (0) 22 2284 4519



Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus): Built by the British in 1888 and considered one of the most architecturally stunning railway stations in the world, CST is probably the world's most bustling UNESCO World Heritage site, with over four million people passing through it each day.



Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach: Marine Drive with its skyscrapers and old art deco buildings leads right up to Chowpatty Beach, a hub for aggressive vendors, snake charmers, head masseurs and roadside restaurants serving popular Indian chow like bhel puri (a puffed rice dish) and kulfi (Indian ice cream).



Dhobi Ghat: In an open area in Central Mumbai, hundreds of men violently wash the city’s clothes. It's become a tourist spectacle of color and chaos. Dr. E. Moses Road, +91 (0) 22 2202 4482

Mumbai's old markets: The original epicenter of commercial life in the city, Crawford Market, Zaveri Bazaar and Buleshwar are like living museums.

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Where to eat

Indigo: Consistently tagged as one of the best restaurants in India, Rahul and Malini Akerkar's fusion cuisine draws celebrity diners such as Bill Clinton and Brad Pitt. The legendary Sunday brunch comes complete with live jazz music and free-flowing Indian liquor. 4 Mandlik Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 6636 8980



Swati Snacks: Serving savory, Gujarati-style food such as paanki (garlicky rice pancakes steamed in banana leaves) and dal dhokli (Indian lasagna), this Tardeo spot is a vegetarian's dream. 248, Karai Estate, opposite Bhatia Hospital, Tardeo Road, +91 (0) 22 6580 8405



Khyber: Intimate and nondescript -- the restaurant doesn't have an outdoor sign -- this local favorite is renowned for its North Indian and frontier dishes, especially the kebabs and dals. 145, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort, +91 (0) 22 2267 3227



Konkan Cafe: Cuisine here is from the western coast of India (the ‘Konkan’). Pomfret Recheado (pan-fried pomfret coated with a fiery red masala),
Malabari chicken, Mangalorean fish curry and avial (mixed vegetables in
a light coconut gravy) are well-loved signature dishes. Taj President, 90 Cuffe Parade, +91 22 6665 0808

Trishna: Arguably the best seafood dishes in Mumbai are served at this upscale restaurant. Masterpieces include the perfectly spiced garlic king crab, pomfret (fish) and tiger prawns. Sai Baba Marg, next to Commerce House, near Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort, +91 (0) 22 2261 4991

The Tasting Room: This brightly lit, style conscious bistro located above a wonderful home decor store, is a wine-only restaurant lovely for a spot of light lunch with the ladies. 1st Floor, Good Earth Building, Raghuvanshi Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel,
+91 (0) 22 6522 0440

Olive Bandra: A favorite with the posh suburban crowd who sit side by side with Bollywood movie stars sipping sangria and sharing pizzas in this all-time favorite, Mediterranean inspired Mumbai restaurant. 14, Union Park, Khar West, +91 (0) 22 2605 8228

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Where to drink

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Where to shop

Chor Bazaar: The city's bustling 'Thieves Market,' where bargain hunters sift through an eclectic range of new and used furniture, antiques and general bric-a-brac, puts your haggling skills to work. Mutton Street, Opposite Shafi Masjid

Cottage Industries Emporium: This massive gift shop offers an exciting hodgepodge of crafts, handicrafts and artifacts, from silk rugs to jewelry and scarves. 34, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg, Apollo Bunder, +91 (0) 22 2202 6564

Fabindia: This vast, long-standing boutique offers shirts, trousers, kurtas and salwar kameez all made from colorful block-printed silk and cotton. Jeroo Building, 137, M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda, +91 (0) 22 2262 6539. Outlets also located at Bandra, Lower Parel, Khar, Ghatkopar, Malad and Vashi.

Good Earth: A stylish home and interior decor store for contemporary Indian design, with a popular restaurant called The Tasting Room attached to their flagship store. Raghuvanshi Mansions, Raghuvanshi Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, +91 (0) 22 2495 1954

Bungalow 8: Proprietor of this 19th century building turned boutique, Maithili Ahluwalia, has a diverse aesthetic, as she trawls both Parisian flea markets and
old Indian homes for the perfect finds, whether it's lamp, a vase or a
vintage sofa. Grants Building, 17 Arthur Bunder Road, near Radio Club, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 2281 9880/81/82

Bombay Electric: Buzzing with the best in Indian fashion design the clothes, scarves, jewellery and other random accessories make this the best curated concept store in the city. 1, Reay House, BEST Marg, +91 (0) 22 2287 6276

Also, read the 24 hours CNNGo itinerary for lovers of luxury.

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Health and fitness

Hotel gyms are convenient and cool, but those who dare to face the heat have several options.

For walkers and runners, Priyadarshini Park on Napean Sea Road features a jogging track with a sea view as does Joggers Park on Bandra's Carter Road; Mahalaxmi Race Course has a 2.2 km dirt track where you can walk while watching race horses warm up; and Oval and Azad Maidans in Churchgate are nice locales for leisurely strolls -- watch out for flying cricket balls.

For golfers, Bombay Presidency Golf Club welcomes visitors for a fee. Dr. Choithram Gidwani Road, Chembur, +91 (0) 22 2520 5874

Tennis enthusiasts can get courts at Maharashtra State Lawn Tennis Association for a fee. 165, G.A. Ranade Tennis Centre, Maharishi Karve Road, Nariman Point, +91 (0) 22 2287 4806

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Business

Wi-Fi: Mumbai is a bit behind when it comes to wireless Internet technology. It's best to buy a portable plug. The tech-savvy will tell you Reliance NetConnect and Tata Photon are the fastest options. Almost all five-star hotels are Wi-Fi-enabled or have broadband service, but getting online usually comes with a hefty price tag. Domestic and international airports have wireless service, but the connections are slow.

Business attire: Suits are reserved for boardrooms, conferences and top management. A full-sleeved shirt and trousers is generally considered business wear. Skirts are acceptable for women as long as they're at least knee length.

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Money

• Visitors can exchange foreign currency at the airport or any of the banks in the city. The American Express Travel Services office in Colaba (near Regal Cinema, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Road, Colaba, + 91 (0) 22 2204 8291) and Thomas Cook (Thomas Cook Building, D. Naoroji Road, near Flora Fountain, Fort, +91 (0) 22 2204 8556) are both reliable places to exchange money.
• Most major banks are on the Cirrus and Visa networks.
• Thomas Cook, Standard Chartered, Deutsche Bank and Bank of America have offices in the Fort area in South Mumbai.

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Emergency info

• Ambulance: 103, 1298
• Fire: 102
• Police: 101
• Call-a-Cab services:
  
  Meru Cabs +91 (0) 22 4422 4422
  
  Mega Cabs +91 (0) 22 4242 4242
  
  Gold Cabs +91 (0) 22 3244 3333/9999
  
  Priyadarshini taxis for women +91 (0) 22 6730 9550
• JustDial (telephone directory service):  +91 (0) 22 2888 8888
  
  
  
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