Mumbai today
You don’t dip your feet into Mumbai -- you dive in. Known as the commercial capital of India, the frenetic metropolis can overwhelm you with its noise, smells, crowds and chaos. But the land of Bollywood will also thrill you with its hustle and bustle, diverse art and culinary scenes, big festivals and warm, welcoming people.
Getting in and out
By Air
Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport is the main international gateway to India. It is served by several dozen airlines, including a slew of no-frills, budget carriers.
Prepaid taxis can be booked from counters in the arrivals area. (Each counter may offer a different rate, so shop around.) A ride to Mumbai's southernmost point of Colaba, the main tourist district, will cost about Rs 350 and take anywhere from 45 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on the time of day.
By Land
Trains arrive from all over India, stopping at one of the three key stations: Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus, Dadar Terminus and Kurla Terminus.
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Getting around
While slow and dilapidated, the city's signature yellow and black taxis are also cheap and convenient. The readings on the mechanical meters are outdated, so insist on seeing an updated fare chart carried by each driver. Auto-rickshaws are a speedier alternative, but are only permitted in the suburbs. For the comfiest and safest ride, call the Group Mobile Cool Cab Service (+91 (0) 22 2490 5151), which offers cabs with air conditioning and seat belts.
Local trains and buses do exist, but often aren't practical options for visitors.
Language
While Marathi is the official language, used by government officials and local police, a slang form of Hindi called Bambaya Hindi is popular on the streets. Most locals also speak English, which dominates the corporate industries.
Good to know
- The weather is always warm and humid, but it's most bearable between November and February when daily highs average 88°F (31°C). The monsoon can arrive anytime after late May, with the heaviest rainfall in June, July and August.
- Pack light-colored clothing made of airy cotton or linen. For women, modesty is strongly advised. No spaghetti straps, low-cup shirts or miniskirts. Non-revealing attire is mandatory at temples and mosques.
- During the rainy season, bring mosquito repellent to protect against malarial mosquitoes.
- Drink only bottled water. When purchasing, make sure the seal is intact.
- Smoking is not permitted in bars, restaurants and many other public spaces.
- ATMs, located throughout the city, are the easiest way to get local currency. Most have 24-hour security.
- When greeting locals, do as they do, whether they offer a handshake or a traditional ‘namaste.’ Never greet women with a kiss, even on the hand.
- Be prepared to eat with your hands, though most restaurants will happily grant silverware upon request.
- In crowded places, don’t be afraid to push your way through or risk being pushed out of the way.
- India is four-and-a-half hours ahead of GMT time during the summer, five-and-a-half during the winter.
Where to stay
The Taj Mahal Palace & Tower: With five restaurants, 565 elegant rooms and panoramic views of the landmark Gate of India and Arabian Sea, the five-star mega-hotel is the most celebrated address in (South) Mumbai. Apollo Bunder, +91 (0) 22 6665 3366
Gordon House: Chic and minimalist, this boutique hotel is a quiet refuge right in the middle of Colaba's action-packed neighborhood. 5 Battery Street, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 2287 1122
Ascot Hotel: A rare bargain, the Ascot offers fresh and modern rooms on a quiet street in Colaba. 38 Garden Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 6638 5566
Four Seasons Hotel: Centrally located in the emerging Worli district, the can't-go-wrong hotel giant whisks vacationers and business travelers into luxury with exquisite dining, an ayurveda spa and a lushly landscaped pool. 114 Dr. E. Moses Road, Worli, +91 (0) 22 2481 8000
Bentley's Hotel: One of Mumbai's most popular budget tourist hotels. The rooms, while without frills, still hint at Victorian grandeur. 17 Oliver Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 2284 1474
What to do
The Gateway of India: With its unique Hindu-meets-Muslim architectural style, the basalt arch originally built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary offers beautiful views of the coast. Apollo Bunder, +91 22 2202 3585
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya: Formerly known as Prince of Wales Museum, Mumbai's biggest museum houses a fascinating mix of artifacts, paintings and sculptures from across India, dating to the ancient Indus Valley civilization. 159-161 Mahatma Gandhi Road, +91 (0) 22 2284 4519
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus): Built by the British in 1888 and considered one of the most architecturally stunning railway stations in the world, CST is more bustling than ever, with four million people passing through it each day.
Marine Drive and Chowpatty Beach: The picturesque Marine Drive leads right up to Chowpatty Beach, a hub for aggressive vendors, snake charmers, masseurs and roadside restaurants serving popular Indian chow like bhel puri (a puffed rice dish) and kulfi (Indian ice cream).
Dhobi Ghat: In an open area in Central Mumbai, hundreds of men violently wash the city’s clothes. It's become a tourist spectacle of color and chaos. Dr. E. Moses Road, +91 (0) 22 2202 4482
Where to eat
Indigo: Consistently tagged one of the best restaurants in the world, the fusion cuisine draws celebrity diners such as Bill Clinton and Brad Pitt. The legendary Sunday brunch comes complete with live jazz music and free-flowing Indian liquor. 4 Mandlik Road, Colaba, +91 (0) 22 6636 8980
Swati Snacks: Serving savory, Gujarati-style food such as paanki (garlicky rice pancakes steamed in banana leaves) and dal dhokli (Indian lasagna), this Tardeo spot is a vegetarian gem. 248, Karai Estate, opposite Bhatia Hospital, Tardeo Road, +91 (0) 22 6580 8405
Khyber: Intimate and nondescript -- the restaurant doesn't have an outdoor sign -- this local favorite is renowned for its North Indian and frontier dishes, especially the kebabs and dals. 145, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Fort, +91 (0) 22 2267 3227
China House: At this multi-level lounge and restaurant, housed at the Grand Hyatt, diners can enjoy Indo-Chinese cuisine inside garden-surrounded pagodas. Grand Hyatt, off Western Express Highway, Santa Cruz East, +91 (0) 22 6676 1234
Trishna: Arguably the best seafood dishes in Mumbai are served at this upscale restaurant. Masterpieces include the perfectly spiced garlic king crab, pomfret (fish) and tiger prawns. Sai Baba Marg, next to Commerce House, near Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda, Fort, +91 (0) 22 2261 4991
Where to drink
Blue Frog: With the acoustics of a symphony hall and the ambience of a spaceship, the 1,000-square-meter complex is the best place for live music in Mumbai. Zeba Centre, Mathuradas Mills Compound, Tulsi Pipe Road, Lower Parel, +91 (0) 22 4033 2300
Dome: A breezy and chic terrace bar with a spectacular view of Queen’s Necklace (the glittering lights along Marine Drive). InterContinental Hotel, 135, Marine Drive, + 91 (0) 22 3987 9999
Zenzi: With plush sofas, good snacks, a long outdoor bar and an upbeat playlist, this restaurant and lounge is the gathering place for Mumbai's suburban young elite. 183 Waterfield Road, Bandra, +91 (0) 22 6643 0670
Zenzi Mills: An offshoot of Zenzi, this hotspot is actually a converted cotton mill. Its industrial elements, such as exposed brick and air vents, are juxtaposed by a long, ultra-sleek bar. Mathuradas Mills Compound, Tulsi Pipe Road, Lower Parel, +91 (0) 22 4345 5455
Leopold Café: The iconic pub, made famous by the novel "Shantaram" by Gregory David Roberts, is popular with backpackers and students looking for cheap three-liter pitchers of beer. Near Electric House, Colaba Causeway, +91 (0) 22 2282 8185
Where to shop
Chor Bazaar: The city's bustling 'Thieves Market,' where bargain hunters sift through an eclectic range of new and used furniture, antiques and general bric-a-brac, puts your haggling skills to work. Mutton Street, Opposite Shafi Masjid
Cottage Industries Emporium: This massive gift shop offers an exciting hodgepodge of crafts, handicrafts and artifacts, from silk rugs to jewelry and scarves. 34, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Marg, Apollo Bunder, +91 (0) 22 2202 6564
Fabindia: This vast, long-standing boutique offers shirts, trousers, kurtas and salwar kameez all made from colorful block-printed silk and cotton. Jeroo Building, 137, M.G. Road, Kala Ghoda, +91 (0) 22 2262 6539. Outlets also located at Bandra, Lower Parel, Khar, Ghatkopar, Malad and Vashi.
Good Earth: A stylish home and interior decor store for contemporary Indian design, with a popular restaurant called The Tasting Room attached to their flagship store. Raghuvanshi Mansions, Raghuvanshi Mills, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, +91 (0) 22 2495 1954
Health and fitness
Hotel gyms are convenient and cool, but those who dare to face the heat have several options.
For walkers and runners, Priyadarshini Park on Napean Sea Road features a jogging track with a sea view; Mahalaxmi Race Course has a 2.2 km dirt track where you can walk while watching race horses warm up; Oval and Azad Maidans in Churchgate are nice locales for leisurely strolls -- watch out for flying cricket balls.
For golfers, Bombay Presidency Golf Club welcomes visitors for a fee. Dr. Choithram Gidwani Road, Chembur, +91 (0) 22 2520 5874
Tennis enthusiasts can get courts at Maharashtra State Lawn Tennis Association for a fee. 165, G.A. Ranade Tennis Centre, Maharishi Karve Road, Nariman Point, +91 (0) 22 2287 4806
Business
Wi-Fi: Mumbai is a bit behind when it comes to wireless Internet technology. It's best to buy a portable plug. Service providers include Tata Indicom, Idea and Vodafone, though the tech-savvy will tell you Reliance is the fastest option. Almost all five-star hotels are Wi-Fi-enabled or have broadband service, but getting online usually comes with a hefty price tag. Domestic and international airports have wireless service, but the connections are slow.
Business attire: Suits are reserved for boardrooms, conferences and top management. A full-sleeved shirt and trousers is generally considered business wear. Skirts are acceptable for women as long as they're at least knee length.
Money
- Visitors can exchange foreign currency at the airport or any of the banks in the city. The American Express Travel Services office near Regal Cinema in Colaba is also a reliable place to exchange money.
- Most major banks are on the Cirrus and Visa networks.
- Thomas Cook, Standard Chartered, Deutsche Bank and Bank of America have offices in the Fort area in South Mumbai.
Emergency info
- Ambulance: 103, 1298
- Fire: 102
- Police: 101
- Call-a-Cab services:
Meru Cabs +91 (0) 22 4422 4422
Mega Cabs +91 (0) 22 4242 4242
Gold Cabs +91 (0) 22 3244 3333/9999
Priyadarshini taxis for women +91 (0) 22 6730 9550 - JustDial (telephone directory service): +91 (0) 22 2888 8888
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