East of Eden: With kayak and snorkel to far-flung Hong Kong

There are two reasons to run fully clothed at speed into Hoi Ha Wan's waters: to feel the crisp, clean ocean splashing in your face and to relieve the Satanic burn of 23 mosquito bites on your left calf.

The itchy sprint into the water is my introduction to Hoi Ha Wan, a dazzling marine reserve just north of Sai Kung Country Park, about an hour and 45 minutes by road from Central.

I’ve come to paddle the reputed “best kayaking spot in Hong Kong” and snorkel in its World Wildlife Foundation-protected waters, where 39 of 50 local stony coral species flourish.

First stop is a rental shop called Wan Hoi. It’s located on Sandy Beach five minutes' walk from the bus stop in front of the tiny village of Hoi Ha, which is backed by fung shui woods.

It’s on the short walk to the shop that I discover that the ticks and mosquitoes are vicious in this forested part of Hong Kong. Cursing myself for not remembering to bring repellent, I detour into the water for some quick relief.

Inside Wan Hoi, the elderly shopkeeper -- with the toned physique of a 25-year-old -- hands me a mask and snorkel and finds me a narrow, one-seater kayak.

Minor bumps and scratched green paint show the kayak’s age, but the vessel appears sturdy enough, even for a beginner like me.

“Keep your legs shoulder-width apart or you’ll tip over,” is all the shopkeeper tells me before pushing my craft unceremoniously into the water.

Cool temps, coral explosion, colorful new friends

Paddling away from shore, I feel the humidity begin to drop. It’s as if someone turned off the giant oven that bakes summertime Hong Kong.

My body settles into relaxed vacation mode and the sun becomes like a welcome fire on a cool night.

It’s tough to believe a vacation destination exists this close to home.

Roughly 300 meters from shore, I hover directly above a coral community in shallow water near a pier. I steer into a no-motorized-boat zone and hitch the kayak to a buoy so as not to risk damaging the precious corals.

I slip out of the kayak and into the water. While I’m not the best swimmer, I am excellent at doggy paddle and that is the most valuable kayaking and snorkeling survival skill.

Just a few meters from the rocky shore, I plunge my face underwater. Beneath the emerald surface lurk magnificent hard and soft brainy corals, stony coral, sponges, sea cucumbers and a color-burst of tropical fish.

A glint from three Chinese demoiselle (purple and yellow fish) catches my eye, but when I try to photograph them a school of black and yellow fish lock into my frame. They end up being brighter and much more photogenic.

Hong Kong or New Zealand?

Back above the surface, the endless horizon of mountain and ocean are reminiscent of the temperate climates of New Zealand or British Columbia, but the hue and saturation of colors couldn’t be anywhere other than Hong Kong.

The sand on every beach looks like cornmeal, the signature green water matches the hulls of Star Ferries and the mountains are thick with vegetation -- not lush, more like big, green scouring pads.

After my photo session with the fish, a raw-looking beach filled with shells, pebbles, and flat slabs of rock looks perfect for a rest. Three gaunt cows on shore appear unperturbed as I paddle toward their beach.

The water becomes shallow and even clearer as I near the shore, slowly revealing a thick black carpet of spiky sea urchins on the seabed beneath me.

The thought of tipping over into hundreds of urchin daggers puts me in a mild panic. I take a breath, position my legs at shoulder-width and balance the kayak. That one-sentence lesson from the shopkeeper turns out to be the most valuable tip of the day.

I like Hoi Ha Wan, but I don't want to die here, and certainly not as a felon, damaging protected marine life while getting punctured by underwater mace flails.

The demonic globes with their long black spikes -- which turn out to protect their anuses, of all things -- are a vivid reminder that Hoi Ha Wan remains a rare treasure in Hong Kong.

A genuine nature preserve where the wildlife rules and the only human contact you get is not only brief and sensible, it also leaves you blessedly cool and dry.

For the most comfortable paddling temperatures, it’s best to visit Hoi Ha Wan between May and September.

How to Get there: Hoi Ha Wan, Sai Kung Peninsula. From Central take the MTR to Diamond Hill, exit C2. Then take the 96R bus to Sai Kung on weekdays and Saturdays, or the 92 bus on Sundays.

In Sai Kung Town board the number 7 green minibus to Hoi Ha Village. Private vehicles are not allowed access without permits, which must be arranged in advance. Rentals from Wan Hoi shop, +852 2328 2169. Snorkels and masks HK$30 all day, single kayaks HK$100.

Other kayaking sites:

Cheung Sha Beach Water Sports Centre. 29 Lower Cheung Sha Village, Lantau Island, Hong Kong +852 8104 6222 www.longcoast.hk

Wong Shek Water Sports Centre. Wong Shek Pier, Sai Kung, New Territories, Wednesday-Monday 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m., +852 2328 2311  wswsc@lcsd.gov.hk

Tek Mei Tuk Water Sports Centre. Main Dam, Plover Reservoir, Tai Po, +852 2665 3591, Thursday-Tuesdaym 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m.