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by Christopher DeWolf
23 December, 2009



   
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Chungking Mansions Christmas gifts guide

Edibles, Bollywood, and espionage ... get your last minute secret santa gifts at the least expected place
 
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You really can get everything you never thought you ever needed at Chungking Mansions.
Chungking Mansions is known for a lot of things -- cheap guesthouses, good Indian restaurants, dodgy business deals -- but shopping isn't one of them. That's a shame, because this cavernous, polyglot building contains one of the most unusual retail mixes in Hong Kong.

With most of the shops catering to the South Asians and Africans who live and work around Chungking Mansions, there are plenty of treasures to be found.

chungking mansions
Best samosas in town

$4 each from a snack bar, shop 94B

You don't want to wander around Chungking Mansions on an empty stomach -- that would be an insult to hundreds of years of South Asian culinary tradition. So start your journey at one of the ground floor's many small food stalls. The samosas at this particular stand are cheap and delicious, with a well-balanced mix of spices, potatoes and onions. Pick up a few dozen for the office Christmas party, or as a perfect gift for a greedy colleague. The pakoras are worth trying, too, and if you're particularly hungry, a variety of takeaway curries are available for about $30.


Indian spices for eating ... and drinking 

$12 from Chahil Provision Store, shop 103

The North Indian equivalent to lemonade, jal jeera (literally "water cumin") is a murky-coloured summer beverage with cumin, mint, rock salt, ginger and mango, among other ingredients. It's usually consumed before meals as an appetizer or in between dishes as a digestif. Along with more commonly-known spice mixes like garam masala, you can buy jar jeera masala in this small dry goods store run by an affable Sikh man. If you're not thirsty, the shelves are stocked with other subcontinental delights like canned ghee.


chungking mansions
Hard to find Bollywood DVDs

$5 from New Catmando Store, shop 23

Where there are Indians, there's Bollywood. Several Bollywood movie stalls can be found within Chungking Mansions, but it's this one, tucked away in the back corner, that has a huge selection of astoundingly cheap DVDs. You can find them in a box just outside the shop's front door; the transfer quality isn't nearly as good as the more expensive DVDs on sale inside, but who can resist three hours of entertainment for less than the price of an MTR ride?






Obamania

$60 from Hip Hop Clothing, shop 54

Obamania has even spread to Chungking Mansions. This tiny shop sells hip-hop clothing -- oversized t-shirts and other such things -- but a large chunk of its merchandise is dedicated to the first black president of the United States. Some of the shirts are matched with baseball caps that say not-very-nice things about the police.


chungking mansions
Stealth and faith 2.0

$750 from Nasaki Trading Company, shop 82A

Ever wanted to take a picture with your eyes? These sunglasses are as close as you'll get to actually doing it, thanks to a small camera built into the frames. They also come with an MP3 player and two gigabytes of internal memory, so you can listen to your favourite tunes while wandering around surreptitiously snapping photos. If simple voyeurism is old hat for you, try some of the shop's other wares, like the voice-altering mobile phone, which can make a man sound like a woman. Find that off-putting? Take solace in the Digital Qur'an, which can recite to you the entire contents of the Islamic holy book.

 

 


Chungking Mansions

36-44 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

See also A thrilling look at Chungking Mansions




   
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Christopher DeWolf is a writer, photographer and self-styled flâneur.

Read more about Christopher DeWolf
Tags: Tsim Sha Tsui, Chungking Mansions, Christmas gifts in Hong Kong
user comments and reviews (2)
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GregKnudsen
23 December, 2009
When my wife and I first visited Hong Kong in 1976, on our way home from Peace Corps service, we stayed at the Chungking Mansions. Our first night was in a cheap guest house, but the next several days were in an extra room of a private residence and very pleasant. Since then, we have been back to Hong Kong many times and always return to Chungking Mansions to change money (best rates) and purchase small gift items. It has become more South Asian and African over the years, and is full of character. However, we have not stayed there again -- the thought of a firetrap is too disturbing.
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GregKnudsen
23 December, 2009
When my wife and I first visited Hong Kong in 1976, on our way home from Peace Corps service, we stayed at the Chungking Mansions. Our first night was in a cheap guest house, but the next several days were in an extra room of a private residence and very pleasant. Since then, we have been back to Hong Kong many times and always return to Chungking Mansions to change money (best rates) and purchase small gift items. It has become more South Asian and African over the years, and is full of character. However, we have not stayed there again -- the thought of a firetrap is too disturbing.
Ferrumequus
23 December, 2009
As a world traveler who has been coming to Hong Kong since 1979, Chungking Mansions has changed very little. It is a dump and I will always be a dump. I wish the Hong Kong government would condemn this fire hazard and drug infested hell hole and build something more suitable that fits the Tsim Sha Tsui district. I stayed there several times and I cannot recommend this place to any normal person unless they are really desperate. Chucking Mansion is the staging area of most of the illicit trade in drugs, gold smuggling to Korea, India and Nepal, cosmetic smuggling to Japan and Cocaine imports and distribution into Hong Kong. Any low cost traveler should avoid Chucking Mansion at any cost and stay at the YMCA.
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