Sushi Toku

Out of the forest of sushi restaurants in Hong Kong, Sushi Toku is one of the big trees.

The low-key restaurant is unique for the number of cooked fish dishes that stand out from the usual tempura and California rolls.

A traditional sakamushi is steamed fish with sake. The blow-torched san ma sashimi is a smoky, charcoal-y slice of autumn fish that retains the bones.

It's pricey -- dinner can average HK$1,000 per person -- but it beats paying for a flight to Tokyo.